1998 Concorde 3.2L 187K miles.
Check engine light lit up after running for about 5 minutes at 35 MPH; I had just started up for the first time on a 60F day.
P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Engine was running rough.
The guys at O'Reilly's checked their database and found that the injector may be suspect.

I'm guessing that the injectors are right there on top of the engine. Right? (I have had this car only a few months, so I don't know the engine very well yet.)
I noticed that previously, the clip that holds the electrical connector to the injector had been broken. So maybe that connection was a bit loose.
I cleared the codes, drove another mile and the CEL lit up again.
Continued driving about 4 miles, even though it was running rough, stopped at the post office, checked the codes, had the same two codes and cleared them again.
Drove 3 more miles at 25 - 45 without getting any codes.

I'm thinking:
First, tape up that connector that might be loose.
Second, add some injector cleaner.
Then what?
Replace the injector?
Something else?

 

Well, I found out that my guess was wrong. Those things on the top of the engine are not the injectors. Those things are the coils for the spark plugs. D'oh! Which makes changing the spark plugs easy. Unfortunately, the injectors are buried under the plenum. And unfortunately, the Injector Circuit Malfunction could very well be an internal short in the injector. Hopefully, the Lucas injector cleaner will help. Right now, I'm only driving the car a few miles to work and back. When the CEL lights up I can stop, clear the code and the engine runs smooth for a block or a few miles.

 

Does anyone know if the "P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2" indicates a short circuit in the injector, or a plugged injector, or possibly some other wiring problem?

 

Unfortunately it can be any one or both, and under the upper air intake...a royal pain to investigate. If the car had been stored for some time, a critter could have chewed wiring for the injector, or yes the electrical portion "coil" of that injector could be bad. BUT if you restart and it runs smooth for a while chances are you've got a sticky injector pintle rod. A good injector cleaner MAY clear it up, but the engine needs to run at varying throttle settings over time to work. Permanent "fix" would be to plan to replace the injector. and once in there check the wiring and connector to it and repair as needed.

 

OK. Thanks for the reply. I'll carry on with the injector cleaner and driving it, and clearing the codes. And plan on the replacement project.

 

Update: It has not been getting better. I've driven half a tank with Lucas injector cleaner and 3/4 tank of Chevron with Seafoam and it actually has been worse. When I clear the codes, then start the engine, it will only run for 10 seconds before throwing the codes again.

But also I can't accelerate past 40 MPH without severe front end shaking. When I come to a short downhill - there are several creeks to cross around here - I can coast and it gets up to 50 MPH very smoothly. But any pressure on the gas pedal going up the next little hill will cause the shaking to start. So I'm driving as little and as easy as possible.

I have ordered 6 fuel injectors and plan to do the swap this next Saturday.

It looks like I also need the gasket set for the upper plenum and EGR valves. Is there anything else I need?

 

Good news!

With this video:
And 3 hours spent with my son, we replaced all 6 fuel injectors. Now it runs smooth, no vibrations, no codes. I took a drive thru the local hills to see the local fall colors. Sometimes we were working on different parts at the same time, sometimes I held the light or grabbed tools for him while he figured things out - like getting the clips off the EGR valves and putting the throttle linkage back together. Sure glad I raised him right and live just 10 blocks apart. LOL!

It's not that bad of a job if you have 4 hands.

Cheers And Thanks!