Ok, long story short, I think my PCM stopped working. my OBD-II box wouldn't read any more and DRB-III wouldn't either. Dead as a doornail.

So I thought maybe a '98 concorde 3.2 could supply its modules to replace mine (a '99 with 3.2 motor). And I replaced all 3 because they check each other's VIN coding, or so I've heard. The VIN has to match or the modules lock themselves out?

So I got the PCM and TCM (located under hood, driver's side front, remove the headlight to get at them, they are side-by-side with the fuse box) and the BCM (body computer, located on fuse panel) with the piggyback RKE (remote keyless entry) module. The 98 had no SKIM (Sentry Key Ignition Module - AKA chip-key reader), but my 99 does. I reasoned that it would still work, just that the sentry key function would be lost. I removed my SKIM module.

So the OBD-II never did wake up - but now the car flashes the 4-ways when in 'run' position (only). The motor starts, but dies after 4 seconds.

The security system has kicked in? Unlocking the passenger door with the key doesn't help. I don't have a remote. The electric lock switches on the doors don't function any more. Anybody have any ideas? It troubles me that the OBD-II port is dead. Are there any other modules? The only other computers I could trace are the ABS brake module (located on the drivers side, front, almost directly under the headlight), and the infinity sound system amp module (pass side footwell).

My next attempt will be to swap '99 Intrepid PCM/TCM/BCM from a 3.5 motor (I have a 3.2) and see what happens then. Unless I find a 99 concorde first, but Intrepids are more plentiful around here...



Incidentally, the Infinity sound system amplifier module is located above the front passenger footwell side kick panel. It's very hard to get at (high up) - but I could feel it and removed it in the junkyard to see what it was. I doubt that module would have VIN checking. But if you are looking for it, it's up there, held by 2 - 10mm head screws at the bottom and has 2 wire connectors on the bottom.

Also, as a side note, the odometer changed to a different value after the PCM/TCM/BCM replacement, but I had left the dash cluster intact. So the mileage must be stored in the PCM...

 

OMG that just about all I haft to say about that. this is gonna take alot of my time
DO NOT UNDER ANY REASON SWAP MODULES IN A CAR LIKE THIS AGAIN.
U just cost yourself more money then u know.

 

Aw c'mon help me get it going... I'm not buying a new ECU and having it flashed (I don't know why the first one went dead)

I have only heard the motor run for 4 seconds and I am dying to paint this dark grey Concorde with a purple metal flake visible in sunlight, similar to this, except in dark purple:


and change the lettering on the rear and sides to

... G R A P E ...

The Concorde (GRAPE) is such sleek looking car with that oval grille like a racing ferrari, too bad it won't run... dang... but I have time, the forecast is -24 for tomorrow - too cold to paint anything.


I also have a white Sebring Convertible (that works) I want to paint it with thermal paint - it will be black when below 85 F and change to white when over 85. See the demo on a white helmet, and this paint is quite cheap...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ORlWgeQ-oc
(I'm not trying to spam the board, this is just too cool)

 

I have no idea where to start with u.
If u have a gray key then u pretty much messed up the whole system.
if u wont get a new PCM then dont bother trying to fix it.
What u dont understand is that the SKIM system is not interchangeable what so ever.
If u took a pcm out of another car that has it U now told the whole car that U have skim and all the computers are looking for that skim system that is not installed U see what I mean???

 

Aha, now we're getting somewhere, thanks..!!

My 99 has a SKIM, but I never had a key for it. That's the problem. I made a key from the trunk that would turn in the ignition, but it had no chip, so the SKIM locked out the system. OOPs. I got a $20 chip-key, trailered it to a dealer for programming and somehow between here and there the PCM became 'dead as a doornail' - even after leaving the Ignition 'on' for an hour which is supposed to unlock it. Dealer hooked up the DRB-III and nothing - it's just dead - even the OBDii does not power up (it did before)

The 98 I got the donor PCM/TCM/BCM from had no SKIM in it, and no wires for it.

When I put the 98 modules in the 99 car, it would start and run for a few seconds. I'm guessing its a Factory Alarm immobilizer that's not happy, unless there is some wiring difference between the 98 and 99, which is possible but I'd need a factory manual or 2 to check that. It's a good puzzle.

So, I'm going to try a few more things on this system (it's -25 outside right now so it'll wait a while) and if it's still dead - I will try some '99 modules next from a 3.5 or a 3.2 if I can find one (pick yur part has a good selection) but not a 2.7! And try, try again as they say...

I am documenting my trials and tribulations here (and on DodgeIntrepid dot net) to save future tinkerers a little trouble? I just do it for the fun of it, I run a non car-related business which has a lot of free time and I just collect and play with interesting (and cheap) vehicles. I love the look of the 2G Concorde, I hope it drives as good as it looks... in purple metalflake... haha

My research points to the BCM as holding the VIN and Mileage, and I'm not sure if the TCM has the VIN encoded or not (I doubt it, but you know I'm gonna try it). The PCM does have the VIN and if it doesn't match the BCM, that's TROUBLE...

I'd like to get into hacking the PCM and BCM, without a DRB-III; but hey - first things first. 2 weeks ago I thought SKIM was just watery MILK..!!

 

OK I got the Grape going today. The reason it took so long is it was really cold here and winter just seems to go on forever this year. Still have huge snow piles.

It WAS a fuse... #19 to be exact. Interior lights..?? PLUS OBDII and Security system, apparently.

I replaced it and the OBDII lit up..!!
Left the car for an hour with key in the 'RUN' position to let the PCM reset itself from 'lockout' mode?
Still no start - flashing lights - security system...
So I locked/unlocked the passenger side door from the outside (with key) a few times.
NO more flashing... looks promising...
Turn the key and VROOM - plus it runs more than 4 seconds.... YAAY..!!!

Swapping modules is not easy, in fact it's alot of effort but it worked. Got rid of the security key function. Got the car going. Finally..!! Now to the fun part - Purple MetalFlake paint...

 

Ammm... I just stumbled on this old post and there was something that caught my attention
You said " Left the car for an hour with key in the 'RUN' position to let the PCM reset itself from 'lockout' mode?"
Here is my question
Is it possible to put the PCM into lockout mode deliberately or make it so that I don't need to use the chip key ?
I only have one key so even if I got another key I can't program it because I need 2 keys to program another one which is useless because if I would have a second key I would not need to buy one to program it
I would prefer to do away with the skim module altogether and just use a regular key if possible

 

sure unplug the skim module and install a new pcm

 

So I take it that means that there is no way to make the existing pcm go into lockout mode ?
What happens to the vin if I install a new PCM ?
Does the new PCM have to be programed with the existing vin or is that done by itself ?

 

Lockout mode prevents tampering with a scan tool to gain access to the SKIM module function. It will occur when the wrong Pin number is entered 3 times.

You can't disable SKIM unless you put in a new PCM that doesn't see a SKIM module on the BUS when it is connected/programmed. The VIN is entered into the PCM during programming. VIN also determines what software is used. It's sort of hard to explain to the average Joe without you seeing the interface on the scan tool and the techconnect. Hell, sometimes I even get turned around. It's like stand on one foot stick your finger in your left ear and cluck like a chicken...then press this series of buttons!