Oil or fuel in coolant
#11
Finally replaced the radiator yesterday. Thanks tp all that replied with helpful hints, which made the job easir. When taking-off the bracket that holds the transmission lines to the radiator, I did not get to the bolt through the foglight hole as someone had suggested. Rather, I just removed all connections to the radiator and then pulled-it up as much as i could without jeapordizing the transmission hoses...that gave me enough room to undo the small (7mm for future reference) bolt that held the bracket on the radiator (I got the radiator about mid-way of the engine compartment to do this, which made the removal very easy). Used same technique when putting the new radiator into the car (first thing I did was to reconnect the transmission lines back into the groves on the radiator and re-attachning the bracket).
System seems to be working fine, no leaks. But boy, is it juse me or?, it takes forever to bleed the coolant system. Is there a special technique to do this? Have one more problem that I will have to research on this forum and possibly open up a new thread - the radiator fans are not coming on...
System seems to be working fine, no leaks. But boy, is it juse me or?, it takes forever to bleed the coolant system. Is there a special technique to do this? Have one more problem that I will have to research on this forum and possibly open up a new thread - the radiator fans are not coming on...
#12
Good to hear you got it fixed. Bleeding the cooling system is actually rather straighr forward.
Open the bleed screw in the center front of the lower intake manifold (3/8 deep scocket) about 2 turns. Place a funnel in the fill tank that fits snug. Pinch off the line at the neck of the tank (overflow tube) Fill cooling system till coolant overflows out the bleeder and the bubbles stop. Close the bleeder, install rad cap. Start the car, heat on full blast. As soon as you feel any heat shut engine off. Crack the bleeder slightly and allow bubbles out. Once that is done normal drive will get the rest of the air out.
As far as the fans go, did you check that the plug is all the way seated and latched. More than once people thought the plug was seated and it was not.
Open the bleed screw in the center front of the lower intake manifold (3/8 deep scocket) about 2 turns. Place a funnel in the fill tank that fits snug. Pinch off the line at the neck of the tank (overflow tube) Fill cooling system till coolant overflows out the bleeder and the bubbles stop. Close the bleeder, install rad cap. Start the car, heat on full blast. As soon as you feel any heat shut engine off. Crack the bleeder slightly and allow bubbles out. Once that is done normal drive will get the rest of the air out.
As far as the fans go, did you check that the plug is all the way seated and latched. More than once people thought the plug was seated and it was not.
#13
FIREM - Thanks (again)! I will do some more bleeding, don't think all the air is out and that I got enough coolant in to the system (shy of 2 gallons).
I think the fan connector was properly seated but will double check that too. I know the fan works as i applied electricity to it when i had it out, and fans were spinning. So i guess it would either be the connector, a short wire, relays (i checked fuses, they're good) or coolant temp sensor (bought one and will install tomorrow).
I think the fan connector was properly seated but will double check that too. I know the fan works as i applied electricity to it when i had it out, and fans were spinning. So i guess it would either be the connector, a short wire, relays (i checked fuses, they're good) or coolant temp sensor (bought one and will install tomorrow).
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