here ya go which one of U 2 works for chrysler?

TRANSAXLE QUICK LEARN PROCEDURE
The quick learn procedure requires the use of the DRB scan tool.

This program allows the electronic transaxle system to recalibrate itself. This will provide the best possible transaxle operation. The quick learn procedure should be performed if any of the following procedures are performed:

Transaxle Assembly Replacement
Transmission Control Module Replacement
Solenoid/Pressure Switch Assembly Replacement
Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
Valve Body Replacement or Recondition

 

I do my quick learn proceedures with a Snap-on MT2500. are you saying that doesn't work as well as a factory Chrysler DRB?

Although, there is a specific sequence layed out in the Chrysler trans books on doing quick learn thru driving. It's in the Ultradrive Student Reference Book.

 

over 10 years for Chrysler/Dodge. I never claim to know everything, always room to learn more. Just trying to help other people. Thanks for the info. P.S. the DRB (now StarScan) is generally better than any other diag. tool for Chrysler/Dodge since it was made specificly for those vehicles by the manufacturer. Snap-on is a great and proven scan tool. If chrysler22 is not a chrysler tech, he should be. He knows quite a bit. Thanks again.

 

I can't afford the $10k or so the star scan costs. I've been trying to get a DRBIII for 10 years now but the cheapest I've come across is $3000. I bought my latest Snap-on scanner (solus) for less than ½ that.

I'm not a chrysler tech in any way shape or form. My daily driver is a Geo metro @ 44-50 mpg.

Everything I've learned about chryslers is just out of necessity to keep my wife on wheels. she refused to drive my Geo, so I put her in Minivans since the chrysler vans are the easiest to work on and probably the best all around (except honda or toyata.. but thoses are way out of affordability range). Besides these transmissions are a peice of cake to R&R and rebuild. The current van she's driving is a 1999 Town and country Limited. I got it for $500 w/101,000 miles and a bad trans. 1 day's worth of work and $100 in parts and she's got a nice van until I can fix the 2003 Town and country I just picked up for $700

 

When the sensor goes bad, you will know from the check engine light and from the potential stalling caused by a failed CMP. These have a low failure rate, so dont worry. You might have had more thread traffic if you posted this in the E36/7 Z3 forum.

 

I just got a recall notice for a flash that I think takes care of this issue. It was for '03-04 concordes

 

Not sure with your car but with my Chrysler 3.5L,standing in front of the car, it is in front of the engine just between the hood latch and cam housing.A plastic looking circle with a plug on it,it is in plain sight and has two bolts holding on.

 

When the sensor goes bad, you will know from the check engine light and from the potential stalling caused by a failed CMP. These have a low failure rate, so dont worry. You might have had more thread traffic if you posted this in the E36/7 Z3 forum.

 

Alright, my problem is the sensor, "like everyone else had." was replaced, but the engine will not turn over. The coil is fine, the fuel pump is fine, the only thing I have that is wrong is that oil comes out from the first spark plug. Not sure if that is the problem. Tomorrow I will try and replace the spark plug if not then I'll report back on here. Also the wires are all fine, and fuses too. Any suggestions or do you think I am right, since that there is oil coming out from the first spark plug something internal could be the problem. Any suggestions on what I should look for before doing this?

 

Hi there 22Chrysler,

I wish you'd fix my car! Do you live in Michigan? LOL

​​​​​​I have a 2011 Chrysler Town and Country. I've had intermittent starting issues ever since I bought my car. I've had the battery replaced and the starter replaced. Neither replacement helped anything. I've not only had intermittent starting issues, but I've also had weird acceleration issues. When I try speeding up, sometimes my RPM's will jump from 1500 to 3000. I've also had a camshaft position sensor code come up (which has just been replaced twice) and it's still coming up. My second mechanic put in a new catalytic converter. I recently had a blinking check engine light, so I immediately pulled my car over and called a tow truck to tow it 74 miles to a new mechanic, because at this point, he'd be my third mechanic to try to fix these wierd issues. He put in new cam position sensors, but when I went to go pick it up, it was still driving weird, and the next morning, by check engine light was on again. Sometimes the traction control light comes on with the check engine light (they come on at the same time). The last time I started my car, the traction control light and the check engine light came on together, but it was driving without issue earlier the same that day. When I proceeded to drive it home 3 miles away, I was near my exit on the freeway, and all of a sudden, my car would not accelerate AT ALL. Usually, when I've had acceleration issues, my car would all of a sudden get up to speed, but not this time. I basically coasted home and I did not drive it until I was able to get it into another mechanic's. One week later I was able to get my car into my 4th mechanic, I was afraid to drive my car there but this mechanic was only 2 miles away. This time, when I started my vehicle, the check engine light came on but not the traction control light. It drove fine. Oh, did I mention that when my traction control light is on, it's usually bone dry... no snow, no rain, dry roads. I did put in a new ground strap on my own because I noticed it was green. That has helped my non-starting issues (it's certainly not as frequent anymore). I also put in a new camshaft position sensor myself (the one near the firewall side of the engine) because I've just spend so much money trying to get my car fixed. But, of course, a couple days later, the check engine light came on again. But it's weird because my third mechanic said that I had a bad camshaft position sensor, so he replaced that and the crankshaft position sensor. Then, like I said, the next day, it happened again... no start, then weird acceleration issues, then a few days later, no acceleration AT ALL while I was pressing the gas. This 4th mechanic said he can't duplicate the issue so he can't fix it. I'm really so very frustrated. I'm out of money, and to put the cherry on this, my job is to grocery shop for people and drop off their groceries. I had to take this job because I have a neck injury which prevents me from doing the types of jobs I used to. I bought the van a little over a year ago and I'm just so frustrated. I'm afraid to drive it. Also, sometimes my rear camera does not come on when I'm backing up. I'm just so darned lost.