I have read a ton on these forums about my problem, and have concluded through lots of others description of what my problem is, is that I need a new wheel hub assembly on my 1999 Chrysler LHS, its got 175k miles, and the whirring noise starting as soon as I let wal mart take off my winter tires and put my brand new Turanza serenties on.

I was just wondering if someone could answer this 1 question, do I really need a impact gun to take off the bolts on the bad hub assembly? or can I just realistically use wd-40 and muscle? that seems to be the only problem I would encounter. Everyone so far says it is a very easy job to complete, with just 1 tip, remember to re-pump your brakes after you put your calipers back on the rotor, and 1 warning, make sure you have an air gun, because the torque on the hub nuts is like 200-250ft/lb, or something like that. Is that pretty accurate? or something that I shouldnt have a problem with, using normal residential garage tools. THank you for your replies. Didnt really want to make another wheel hub assembly post, but couldnt find out answer to my question.

 

buy a service manual then see if U want to tackle it

 

hmm, I installed a new hub assembly on my drivers side. Had the local mechanic put the car up on a rack, said for sure the hub assembly on drivers side needed replacement, and I should like at replacing other side. I have 176k on my 1999 chrysler lhs. He also said it looked like the calipers where gripping, so maybe something wrong with the ABS system, but should auto-correct itself once both hubs were replaced. Paid him about $170 to install new hub assembly on drivers side and new set of duralast c-max breaks on front end. what I know right now are even after replacement breaks and hub assembly on driver side, the exact same symptoms are still showing as before, and they are as follows:

when I turn the steering wheel to the right about 20%+ absolutely no vibration, smoothe as cream just as before I got all season tires put on, and winter tires taken off. But when My steering wheel is even-straight, slight vibration I can feel in both steering wheel and break pedal, is especially bad 90mph+, and if I turn the steering wheel to the left 20%+ the vibration is really profound, and is visible in the steering wheel 10-90mph+.

What I am asking if you guys here at the forums, have a suggestion as to what this problem may be. I thought for sure it was the wheel hub on drivers side since the vibration and whirling sound seemed to come from that side, but ever after replacement, same symptoms. Should I buy a new replacement hub for the passenger side? or just replace the calipers? Thank you for reading.

 

Chrysler tech, or anyone else have a suggestion for this problem? I thought for sure it was a wheel hub on driver side, since dobbs, and walmart agreed. So I had wheel hub on drivers side replaced. All this started when I had winter tires taken off, and all season tires put on.

Symptoms I have are as follows, when the steering wheel is in straight position I have a vibration that I can feel in steering wheel and even break pedal a little, definately a whirling noise, when I turn the steering wheel to right about 20% the steering becomes smooth and nice, like it should. but when I change it back to straight or to the left, it is a prominent vibration noise, I can feel in steering wheel and break pedal. This noise/vibration is present from 10mph-120mph, at around 90mph+ the vibration noise is visible in the steering wheel as it will start to "jeer" a little.

Any suggestions on this are appreciated, when the mechanic installed the new wheel hub on the drivers side, I asked if it was fixed..he said it still talks to you a little, and I should look at having the other side replaced. Honestly though, it sounds exactly the same as it did before.

 

sorry cant do anything about sounds or vibrations over the internet

 

Alright, thanks for your help in these forums. I lifted each of the front tires up on a jack individually today, the passanger side had no play at all when wiggling the tire at 3 and 9, and 12 and 6. But the drivers side definately has play at 12 and 6, 3 and 9 are fine. I am wondering now if these means a loose tie rod end, or a ball joint, I am reading right now, but any suggestions would help.

Just had the hub assembly replaced on the drivers side, so far from my reading it seems that it could be the hub, tie rod, or lower ball joint. the wiggle I get on the drivers side tire at 12 and 6 o clock seems like the tire bolts are loose, i mean there a lot of play, seems like the wheel moves either way about a quarter inch.

 

Ok, well my problem is solved as far as vibration and whirling noise is concerned. I am making this post for people like me who had a problem and did google research but may have a hard time fitting someone elses symptoms, and then actually getting an answer to that persons problem. Anywhoo, I replaced the passanger side wheel hub assembly today, that fixed my problem. I couldnt find a direct answer to why when I turn left the vibration was loud, but when I turn right it wasnt loud at all and very smooth, this problem led me to replace the drivers side wheel hub, since the sound seemed to be coming from that side, but this did not fix the problem.

Apparently if you have a car that makes a vibration when turning right, its because the left wheel hub is going on, the vibration is caused because the cars weight when turning right is put on the left sides wheel hub. Its like a reverse strategy, honestly doesnt make sense to me, for when I turn right, I would think the weight of the car is put on the inside of the turn which would be the right side, but w/e. This theory is reversed if you have the vibration or noise coming from turning to the left, it will be the right wheel hub. Of course, not every vibration/noise is in fact a bad wheel hub, but in my case it was.

I hope this helps any others who may be experiencing a similar problem. In reality I could have probably not replaced the the drivers side wheel hub, and just did the passanger side, but I hear it is recommended to replace both wheel hubs at the same time. Thank you Chrysler Tech for your contributions to this forum, with your time and advice.

 

if the wheel is wiggling after you replaced the hub.. that means the tie rod or ball joint is bad (if the hub is still in good condition)

maybe your tire isnt balanced and caused the hubs to fail quickly.

if you can have somebody wiggle the tire, you can look at the tie rod and ball joint and see it wiggling.
its not gonna hide from you.