Hello everyone! I just joined.

Yesterday I replaced the radiator in my '99 Sebring Coupe (2.5L V6). New radiator, hoses, thermostat, cap, etc). Seems to have solved my cooling system problems.

Today I started the car up, then realized I needed to check something under the hood and shut it back off (ran for about 15 or 20 seconds - seemed to be running fine). I checked what I needed to, and then attempted to restart the car. It turned over and chugged once or twice and died. Further attempts to start it have been completely unsuccesful.

I checked for spark and I have none.

I tried my code reader but it won't even power up. It's one of the less-expensive one's that is powered by the OBD-II port - is that not compatible with the Sebring? I have had no problems with it on other cars.

I think I smelled some fuel but I'm not sure how to verify that the injectors are fireing?

I checked all the fuses and links - no problems there. I searched around on the forum here and then went looking for this "ASD" relay but can't find it. In the main relay/fuse panel all the relays are marked for AC, fan, or lights.

Where should I go from here?

Thanks,
Rick

 

With no codes to serve as a guide, this is just a guess, but with that engine, the most common cause of a "no-start" condition is the distributor. Broken timing belt is another possibility.
Not entirely sure about that model but the ASD relay may be on the firewall.

When searching for information about your car, keep in mind that Sebring coupes are built by Mitsubishi. Information applicable to Mitsubishi coupes is likely to apply to your car as well.

 

I knew about the link with Mitsubishi - not sure how I feel about that but right now it seems a sad face is on my mind...... but it's what I have and it's all I have right now so I'll do the best I can with it.

As to the distributor - I ran across that in some searches as well. I can follow direction pretty well but I haven't come across a way to test the distributor/coil etc for input voltage, resistance, etc. I would like to narrow it down - looking at parts houses online I see that I can buy the whole unit or just the coil - which typically fails?

Also - I would like to rule out the ASD solenoid and the ECU, etc. I see from searching that the ASD solenoid controls fuel as well and I can smell raw gas in the tail-pipe. But that isn't conclusive so what is the best way to check for fuel? The fuel line feels pressureized but I don't know if the injectors are fireing for sure. How can I check the injectors and fuel pump, etc? I'm assuming that if those are working then the ECU and the ASD solenoid are ok - would that be an accurate assumption?

I don't have any spare parts and I can't afford to shot-gun parts at it. I do have a DMM and I'm pretty handy with a test lamp, etc. So if anyone could tell me how to narrow down what parts I need to get the old girl moving again I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Rick

 

get a spark tester put it inline with a plug and the wire start teh car if it lights up U have spark if not that is what U need to look for a a no spark issue.

The asd provides power to the coil,fuel pump.injectors,and generator if u have 12v to them from the asd it has nothing to do with the asd side of things.

 

Yes - I did check the spark with a spark tester and I don't have spark. I guess I wasn't clear about that.

Now I need to know how to narrow that down to coil or distributor, or ECU, etc.

Where should I check for power from the ASD? What is a conveient location? The injectors? Which pin on the distributor plug?

Thank,
Rick

 

I checked all the relay's I could find on the firewall (there are 3 in a group at the top, driver's side of the firewall). All of them test good.

Should I have power to the primary side of the coil only when cranking or all the time with the key on?

I don't have any power to the injectors but again - is that while cranking or with the key on?

I don't have an assistant to crank it over while I'm checking at the moment. Later today I will.

Primary coil resistance is 1.0 Ohm. Book says .6 to .8 is spec. It's an accurate digital meter so the coil is a bit out of spec but not by much on that side. I can't get to the bottom screw on the cap to be able to check the secondary coil resistance - I guess I'll have to pull the battery and tray to get access or turn down an old deep-well socket on the lathe as the one's I have are all a bit long and the shallow's are too short.

Anyone that can help me out here? I bought a Haynes manual and it's about useless. Says crap about it being "difficult" to troublshoot ignition components and to refer to the back of the book for diagrams that aren't even there. What's with it not having any diagrams for the fuel injection and ignition systems? Is the Chiltons manual any better with these cars?

Thanks,
Rick

 

Almost forgot - I was able to get my code reader to connect finally. I guess there was some corrosion in the OBD connector or something. It shows no codes present. So that's no help at all.

And I checked the timing belt - it's tight and no evidence of a broken belt. Cams turn when I crank the engine over.

Rick

 

Ok - more info.

I got my assistant and when cranking I DO have 10v (battery voltage considering starter draw) to the coil primary and to the injectors.

I checked the secondary winding resistance of the coil and I'm seeing:

Primary: 1 Ohm.
Secondary: 6800 Ohms.

Book spec is:

Primary: .6 to .8 Ohms.
Secondary: 12000 to 18000 Ohms.

I am tempted to say this is definitely my problem or at least *a* problem. Can anyone confirm that this would cause a no-start condition and under the circumstances and given the test data would you replace the coil?

Ok - one more thing - the manual and several posts on this forum indicate that the distributor is no serviceable. But rockauto.com sells the coil seperately. What's the deal here? I would rather buy a coil at $100 than a whole distributor at $250... but am I making a mistake in doing so? Is there a high likelyhood of further component failures inside the distributor such as the module, amplifier, or cam sensor?

Rick

 

u can replace either one U would like it would solve the prob

 

So it sounds to you as if the coil is the source of the problem given my test data?

I guess I'm asking what people here would do - is it likely that something else inside the distributor will fail sooner than the replacement coil?

GD