It looks like thermostat housing, there is no thermostat in it. It is made of 2 plastic pieces glued(!) together.Seam is leaking.I broke them apart and glued with JB weld. I hope it will work. Dealer doesn't sell it w/o temp. sensor! 90 dollars!!!
Chrysler tech, can you remove it w/o removing intake manifold? I couldn't.
Upper radiator hose is going to that part and 2 smaller ones.

 

its called a water jacket or water outlet housing. U can remove it yes with out taking off the intake u need some swivle sockets.

 

Do you replace them every day?

 

not everyday no I would say in my shop of 18 techs about 5 a month

 

Sorry this is a bit late for this forum, but I just foundit through my searchand it describes exactly my issue (Sebring convertible 2002 Limited, 97K).

I noticed the low coolant about 1 month ago. It's on/off. Actually I could not find any leak evidence (spots on driveway when car is running) except that coolant goes low and I sometimes smelled it while driving (no, it is not coming in the heater core).I once evengot the P0125 check engine code (coolant temp is always low), which was fixed by filling the coolant again. Also my heaterset on high would send out cold air when idle.However,a couple of days ago I noticed the leak from the seam that car5car described above in the coolant sensor housing (top of engine on the coolant reservoir side with 3 coolant pipes attached to it). I had just parked the car after a drive and left it running. But after a while of it being parked, running idle,the seam dried up as you see in the picture below. Notice in the photosthe white residue left on the outside plastic running down, and the discoloration around the seam on top.

Chryslter Tech, is this what you described as the "Water Jacket" or "Water Outlet Housing"? I can see 4 bolts which tie this part down, but onlyone of thoseseems like it would be a bit hard to get to (the manifold is a bit in the way).

My problem is finding this part (other than dealer). I looked everywhere online and searched under the "Water Jacket" and "Water Outlet Housing". All I get is the Thermostat Housing, which is a different part.

Any help on where to get this part without the Coolant sensor, on on part number, and any info/guidence/gotchas in terms of how to replace it would be greatly appreciated?

Here are 2 photos to show what I am having problems with, 1rst to show location (wide angle) and the other to show the part and the 3 coolant pipes attached to it and sensor (one pipe going to reservoir, other going to heater core I believe, and 3rd going to the radiator).

Thanks in advance Chrysler Tech and anyone else for help.

P.S. car5car, how did the JB Weld do?

[IMG]local://upfiles/4976/1462F992EDC24930A03B9B6604798DA1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4976/9647B4206CC74CD7A605F2A1A9E675B0.jpg[/IMG]

 

Actually just found the part number from the local dealer.

The part number for the Water Outlet Housing (pictured above) for my car (2002 Sebring Convertible Limited which is the 2.7 engine) is 4792630AA . It comes with the coolant temp sensor, and they dont' sell it without the sensor! It sells for about $98 here (Atlanta Metro).

Chrysler Tech, you mentioned above that it can be taken out without removing the intake manifold using swivel sockets, but in another post you mentioned you have to take the upper intake manifold to remove it ( https://www.chryslerforum.com/m_6790/tm.htm) . So I have couple of questions:

1) Can you please clarify? Can one replace it without too much difficulty without removing the intake manifold? The way I see it is there are 4 bolts, and 3 of those are easily removable, but the 4th may need some tinkering. However, it does not look too difficult without removing instake. I could be wrong.

2) Do you know where I can purchase this without the sensor? I don't see why I should replace it with the sensor if all that I am fixing is the leak from the seam (plastic part) which has nothing to do with the sensor. Is there a problem with using the old sensor with a new housing?

3) How do you bleed the air bubbles? Do I simply have the coolant flushed after replacing it? or can I simply open the radiator drain and run the engine and keep filling fluid till no air bubbles come out? (no worries, I alway recycle the drained coolant).

4) Any other hints/gotchas?

Thanks again.

 

I have the same "no heat" issue. Filling the coolant tank fixes it for a short time. I 1st thought the problem was a slight leak at the bleeder valve. Mine was seized and the bushing itself loosened from the housing and just turned. I removed the housing hoping to use JB weld to reseat the bushing. ( note: it's not that big a deal to remove the intake manifold, takes about 15 min max. Remove the 1 bolt holding the throttle cable cover, sqeeze the clip below the bolt, and remove the cover. Loosen the hose clamp holding the air intake hose to the throttle body (TB) and remove the hose. Remove the bolt directly below the TB that secures the TB to the engine. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper manifold to the engine. Remove the manifold.) Remove the 4 bolts that secure the water outlet to the block.
If the bleader bushing turns, you can reseat it once the housing is removed from the engine. Ensure the 2 gaskets are NOT on the bottom of the housing to avoid damaging them. Set the housing on a solid flat surface and using the correct size socket set on the bleader so it touches the bushing, gently tap the bushing inward into the housing and remove it from the large hose fitting. Clean the hole and the bushing with a small wire brush on a dremmel tool. Using a small (1/16") ball bit on the dremmel, grind some spots into the housing bleader hole to give some space for JB weld to sit in to help secure the bushing. Clean up the hole. Put some grease on the bleader threads (to keep JBW from the threads) and screw it into the bushing. Connect a 8" or so rubber hose on the bleader and feed the hose into the large outlet hole and up through the bleader hole. This will help guide the bleader into place. Apply some mixed JB weld to the outside of the bushing, and the inside of the bushing hole. Guide the bushing into place and tap it securly into the housing. JB weld can also be applied INSIDE the housing ( 2 or 3 coats) to try seal and re-inforce the housing. Since water pressure will push the JB weld against the inside of the housing, it should not break further. After the JB weld has cured (24 hrs) re-install the housing onto the engine ( 12NM or 105 inch pounds torque). Re-install the intake manifold ( Ensure no wiring connectors or hoses get trapped under the manifold ). Torque the manifold bolts to 12NM or 105 in Lbs as well but start from the center bolt moving out to the right of the car, then from the center to the left of the car. Fill the overflow tank and ensure the bleader screw is seated (you might want to drop a small rubber washer inside the bushing, so you don't have to tighten the bleader too much. Start the car and let it warm, then with the rubber hose connected to the bleeder and feeding back into the overflow tank, or into a clean container ( can be re-used) bleed any air out of the system. Hope for the best.

 

Yeah your right...it is called the water jacket.... you may try to take a look at this guys for swivel sockets... http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20081...e-things-easy/
Hope this help you a little guys...


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Thermostat

 

I recently had the Water Outlet Housing replaced on my 03 Sebring to the tune of $500. Needless to say I'm a bit unhappy. On top of that I have the Added Care Plus Service Contract and it was not covered. It was listed as a 3.5 hour job which seems to be alittle high considering what I've read in these posts. As a Chrysler Tech what are your thoughts on the cost? And do you know of another avenue to pursue reimbursement though the Service Contract. My dealer wasn't much help with that.
Thanks for your time.

 

I'm not a Chrysler Tech, and not even a mechanic... I just don't like to pay outragous $$$'s like that, ( OK, I'm cheap.. no, I meant "Thrify"), and
enjoy the challenge.. did my 1st oil change at 4years old on a 2 ton stake truck.. ( OK, I guided my grandfather to do it, who barely knew how to swing a hammer, while my dad was home sick and the truck had a long trip the next day.. Then in my teens, took the 4 banger out of my vega and put in an 283 V8, and took the A/C out of wrecked 75 Skyhawk, and installed it in my car.
Unless they changed the design a whole lot between 02 & 03, It shouldn't take more that 1 hr to do the job. The housing is about $150 from the dealer ( Yup.. That's gouge #1), and then labour should be under $100. If they charge more, maybe they don't know what they are doing.??