2.7L Waterpump torque & chain tensioner
#1
2.7L Waterpump torque & chain tensioner
What is the proper torque for the water pump bolts for the 2.7L engine? The Haynes manual calls for 17ft Lbs. This seems to be a bit excessive to me for the size of the bolt. I just want to err on the side of caution before I crank down on the bolts.
Also,
I am replacing the chain tensioner with a new one. Do I need to do anything special to it for the reset, and does it need to be primed before installation?
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Also,
I am replacing the chain tensioner with a new one. Do I need to do anything special to it for the reset, and does it need to be primed before installation?
Thanks in advance.
Jim
#2
It's 105 Inch Lbs
The way to do the tensioner
Take slack out of chain clockwise. Install the tensioner, collapse it all the way then let it release out on it's own. The oil pressure will force it the rest of the way out and lock it. DO NOT rev the engine when you first start it.
I would advise you to replace the main chain and guides too while you're in there.
The way to do the tensioner
Take slack out of chain clockwise. Install the tensioner, collapse it all the way then let it release out on it's own. The oil pressure will force it the rest of the way out and lock it. DO NOT rev the engine when you first start it.
I would advise you to replace the main chain and guides too while you're in there.
#3
105 in-lbs, per the Chrysler shop manual. That's about 9 ft-lbs.
You need to reset and purge an old tensioner you are re-installing. A brand new one should be good to go. Expect some noise from the engine for a few seconds on start-up until it fills with oil and starts to actually tension the chain.
You need to reset and purge an old tensioner you are re-installing. A brand new one should be good to go. Expect some noise from the engine for a few seconds on start-up until it fills with oil and starts to actually tension the chain.
#4
still unclear on the tensioner
Thanks for the help. I am changing the timing components along with the water pump.
I am still a bit unclear on the tensioner. I understand resetting of the tensioner, but unclear about priming it with oil.
I have seen on some sites where they say prime it with oil first to avoid having an air bubble trapped inside the tensioner. I have not found an explanation on how to do this.
Is this required and if it is, how do I do it?
Thank you
Jim
I am still a bit unclear on the tensioner. I understand resetting of the tensioner, but unclear about priming it with oil.
I have seen on some sites where they say prime it with oil first to avoid having an air bubble trapped inside the tensioner. I have not found an explanation on how to do this.
Is this required and if it is, how do I do it?
Thank you
Jim
#5
Na just make sure it's extended. The oil pump will do the rest. It sort of acts like a valve lifter. It usually takes about 10 seconds for it to fill it up. DON"T REV IT UP for a little while just let it run.
Last edited by TNtech; 09-17-2010 at 09:58 PM.
#6
It's been a few years since the last reply to this post but I wanted to ask for a bit of clarification on the priming of the tensioner as well. I have a 2001 Sebring 2.7L and I'm getting ready to replace the timing chains, guides, tensioners, water pump and oil pump. I will be installing a new timing chian tensioner and the paper that came with it said that it must be primed prior to installation. I understand that the tensioner has to be released after installation, but as with most other shade tree mechanics I'm worried about jumping timing when I first start it up. I'm nervous about simply starting the engine and letting the oil pump do the work, in previous replies we are warned not to rev the engine up for the first few seconds, but what about when the engine first starts and the RPM's rev fairly high before settling back down?
I read in another forum that the engine can be primed by removing the sparkplugs and cranking the engine over several times to let the oil pump circulate oil throughout the system. Does this make sense?
Thank you for your time!
Dave
I read in another forum that the engine can be primed by removing the sparkplugs and cranking the engine over several times to let the oil pump circulate oil throughout the system. Does this make sense?
Thank you for your time!
Dave
#8
Thanks for your reply Chrysler Tech!
I have been chasing around a "tick" for quite a while now. I had all kinds of pops, clunks and ticks. I've changed out all four torn motor mounts, front shocks and all the bushings/isolators, the top and bottom control arms and all 24 lash adjusters. All the clunks and pops are gone but I still have the engine ticking. I thought I had a bad lash adjuster but the ticking is still there. I'm really hoping the timing chain, oil pump and water pump replacement will solve the rest of the ticking. I know the oil pump is wearing out because I've had the oil pressure tested so I'm thinking that it's not pushing the tensioner out with enough force at idle since the ticking goes away under higher RPM's.
Thanks again!
Dave
I have been chasing around a "tick" for quite a while now. I had all kinds of pops, clunks and ticks. I've changed out all four torn motor mounts, front shocks and all the bushings/isolators, the top and bottom control arms and all 24 lash adjusters. All the clunks and pops are gone but I still have the engine ticking. I thought I had a bad lash adjuster but the ticking is still there. I'm really hoping the timing chain, oil pump and water pump replacement will solve the rest of the ticking. I know the oil pump is wearing out because I've had the oil pressure tested so I'm thinking that it's not pushing the tensioner out with enough force at idle since the ticking goes away under higher RPM's.
Thanks again!
Dave
#9
Is it common for these tensioners to wear out/ fail?
My 2.7 has developed the noise for the first few seconds after start up and I noticed it seems to get a faint noise that sounds like timing chain if i sit and idle for a few minutes. Once I bring the rpm's up a touch or while driving its quiet. I did notice it has a slightly noticeable miss at idle while its making the noise.
Should I be looking into an oil pump or just timing set?
A little added info on the car is that it has 250k km's (not miles) and is over due for an oil change more due to being parked for awhile than due to milage.
Is it possible that an oil change and maybe some Lucas additive is all it needs?
I just bought the car and it sounded great for the first week, then the initial start up noise began. Now a couple weeks in the noise/miss at idle is starting.
My 2.7 has developed the noise for the first few seconds after start up and I noticed it seems to get a faint noise that sounds like timing chain if i sit and idle for a few minutes. Once I bring the rpm's up a touch or while driving its quiet. I did notice it has a slightly noticeable miss at idle while its making the noise.
Should I be looking into an oil pump or just timing set?
A little added info on the car is that it has 250k km's (not miles) and is over due for an oil change more due to being parked for awhile than due to milage.
Is it possible that an oil change and maybe some Lucas additive is all it needs?
I just bought the car and it sounded great for the first week, then the initial start up noise began. Now a couple weeks in the noise/miss at idle is starting.
#10
It would certainly make sense to spend $20 on an oil change first rather than several hundred on replacing the timing chain on a vehicle with a quarter million kilometers on it. They have changed the design of the timing chain so that if you want to replace it, you'll be changing the oil and water pump too along with the tensioner etc.
Think long and hard about whether you want to pour that kind of money into the car. As for the miss, spark plugs should be the starting point.
Fundamental rule of car repair: When in doubt, replace the cheapest thing first.
Think long and hard about whether you want to pour that kind of money into the car. As for the miss, spark plugs should be the starting point.
Fundamental rule of car repair: When in doubt, replace the cheapest thing first.