2001 Convertable top and rear window - Need a fix
#1
2001 Convertable top and rear window - Need a fix
Hi, we have a 2001 Sebring GTC Convertable. I just noticed that the material that surrounds the rear window (on the outside) is starting to seperate itself from the bottom left corner and botton right corner of the window. What can I use to reseal/adhear those areas.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
#2
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t329597.html
Try searching the web for this problem. People seem to have successfully used gorilla glue, 3-M weatherstrip seal, 2 part epoxy, silicone seal and crazy glue (gel) alone and in various combinations.
Mine is showing a little separation so I'll be curious to know what you find out.
Try searching the web for this problem. People seem to have successfully used gorilla glue, 3-M weatherstrip seal, 2 part epoxy, silicone seal and crazy glue (gel) alone and in various combinations.
Mine is showing a little separation so I'll be curious to know what you find out.
#3
I used hot glue to fix the trim around the rear window. That was messy, set too quickly, didn't last long, and required a lot of cleaning to get out of the fabric when I switched to epoxy. One-minute epoxy worked well, but set a little too quickly (a small section is not where it should be). Five-minute epoxy that I used on the rest of it worked wonderfully. Be sure to use paper/tape/anything to protect areas you do not want to get covered with adhesive. The mini binder clips ("borrowed" from work) hold things in place.
MRR
MRR
#4
I stitched up the trim around the window with needle and thread. I found UV resistant thread on the web, and bought a curved needle to be able to poke it up from the underside. I used needle nosed pliers to hold the needle when stitching and pulling through.
Used the same technique to replace a few stitches in the area above the quarter window where the top folds severely.
I'll keep the epoxy in mind for the flap that adheres to the glass. In my experience, slow set is always preferable, if nothing else, to reduce the anxiety factor.
Used the same technique to replace a few stitches in the area above the quarter window where the top folds severely.
I'll keep the epoxy in mind for the flap that adheres to the glass. In my experience, slow set is always preferable, if nothing else, to reduce the anxiety factor.
#5
Fixed
Sorry for the delay, I could not seem to logon. I would request a password change but it never sent me a new one... anyways.... This is what I did.
I used Polyseamseal all-purpose adhesive & caulk in one. I bought this at Lowes. It dries clear and still holding.
Thanks for your suggestions.
I used Polyseamseal all-purpose adhesive & caulk in one. I bought this at Lowes. It dries clear and still holding.
Thanks for your suggestions.
#8
Hey, great tip! I bought some of that Polyseamseal at Lowe's. I got the clear stuff in a 6 oz. tube for 3 bucks. I used alcohol and a razor blade to clean off the glass. The bottom flap was about 75% loose from the glass, so I popped it completely off and cleaned the glass and the flap as well as I could. Then I put down a bead (about 1/4 inch) on the glass and pressed the flap into it. The stuff is good and sticky. I used a wet paper towel to wipe up the excess that oozed out. To apply a little pressure, I covered the seam with plastic and used a couple of yardsticks tucked under the edge of the top and the plastic molding to press gently down on the seam. I let it sit for about 3 hours and then removed the sticks and plastic.
The stuff comes out of the tube white but dries clear. Right now it looks great. Let's hope it holds up.
Thanks again for the pointer.
The stuff comes out of the tube white but dries clear. Right now it looks great. Let's hope it holds up.
Thanks again for the pointer.
#9
Well, that last post was in May. It's now October. The top was down all summer except to wash the car, which was kept in the garage when not being driven. The Polyseamseal is still holding perfectly well. I have put the top up and will probably drive the car only about once a month during the winter in dry weather.
This is not really much of a stress test on this car, but for 3 dollars, it's been a pretty good fix.
This is not really much of a stress test on this car, but for 3 dollars, it's been a pretty good fix.
#10
as long as you dont get a leak. if you get a leak at the rear window you will want to replace the window... the tops on these cars are 2 peice tops you have the top and then the window.... if you end up replacing the window you might want to consider doing the top at the same time..... a top will typically only last about 7 years some last a little longer when kept in a garage but the tops shrink a good deal over time......