2002 sebring LX heater not working
#1
2002 sebring LX heater not working
I have a 2002 sebring lx sedan with 4cyl motor.
1. first off the fan only blows on the "4" setting, I have ordered a new fan resistor for it.
2. the heater will not blow warm.
I have flushed the heater core and the water flowed out the other side very well.
I have watched the bend door actuator and it seems to be fine. It moves from cold to hot with no issues and travels to the its stopping point with blend door lever traveling with it.
only thing I can come up with is that the door itself is broken. has anyone ever changed the blend door? seens like it would be a bear!!
1. first off the fan only blows on the "4" setting, I have ordered a new fan resistor for it.
2. the heater will not blow warm.
I have flushed the heater core and the water flowed out the other side very well.
I have watched the bend door actuator and it seems to be fine. It moves from cold to hot with no issues and travels to the its stopping point with blend door lever traveling with it.
only thing I can come up with is that the door itself is broken. has anyone ever changed the blend door? seens like it would be a bear!!
#3
Try this. Won't hurt, doesn't cost anything.
With engine running, trans in Park, turn the heat control **** all the way to the cold (blue) side. Turn the mode control all the way to the defrost setting. Fan speed on anything but "0". Since "4" is working, go there. Press and hold the rear defrost button until you hear a beep, then let it go. This should put the system in a "calibration" mode. It will go through some gyrations for a minute or so, then give you a readout where the odometer normally is. "A/C 0" is good. If the blend door is out of adjustment, this may cure the problem.
On the 2001 model year, disconnecting the battery for 1 minute or so will initiate the "calibration" sequence.
With engine running, trans in Park, turn the heat control **** all the way to the cold (blue) side. Turn the mode control all the way to the defrost setting. Fan speed on anything but "0". Since "4" is working, go there. Press and hold the rear defrost button until you hear a beep, then let it go. This should put the system in a "calibration" mode. It will go through some gyrations for a minute or so, then give you a readout where the odometer normally is. "A/C 0" is good. If the blend door is out of adjustment, this may cure the problem.
On the 2001 model year, disconnecting the battery for 1 minute or so will initiate the "calibration" sequence.
#6
Here's some more information about that calibration procedure:
Chrysler Repair: ATC error code 24, climate control unit, atc system
Scroll down past the ATC stuff to the manual temperature control area. It gives a description of the "48" code but it doesn't seem to apply to your problem. One thing the procedure does is the "calibration" which can get the doors properly working if they are not properly "calibrated" to move as directed.
Check to see if yours are now working properly. There's a note there about clearing the code.
The system will bleed itself as it goes through a few warm-up and cool-down cycles. Then you can top off if needed. They obviously can't do that on the assembly line, so they put that bleed screw in there so they can fill and bleed the system in one shot at the plant. With time, the bleed screw sticks to its seat and if you turn an old one, it will spin the seat and result in a leak.
Chrysler Repair: ATC error code 24, climate control unit, atc system
Scroll down past the ATC stuff to the manual temperature control area. It gives a description of the "48" code but it doesn't seem to apply to your problem. One thing the procedure does is the "calibration" which can get the doors properly working if they are not properly "calibrated" to move as directed.
Check to see if yours are now working properly. There's a note there about clearing the code.
The system will bleed itself as it goes through a few warm-up and cool-down cycles. Then you can top off if needed. They obviously can't do that on the assembly line, so they put that bleed screw in there so they can fill and bleed the system in one shot at the plant. With time, the bleed screw sticks to its seat and if you turn an old one, it will spin the seat and result in a leak.
#7
Here's some more information about that calibration procedure:
Chrysler Repair: ATC error code 24, climate control unit, atc system
Scroll down past the ATC stuff to the manual temperature control area. It gives a description of the "48" code but it doesn't seem to apply to your problem. One thing the procedure does is the "calibration" which can get the doors properly working if they are not properly "calibrated" to move as directed.
Check to see if yours are now working properly. There's a note there about clearing the code.
Chrysler Repair: ATC error code 24, climate control unit, atc system
Scroll down past the ATC stuff to the manual temperature control area. It gives a description of the "48" code but it doesn't seem to apply to your problem. One thing the procedure does is the "calibration" which can get the doors properly working if they are not properly "calibrated" to move as directed.
Check to see if yours are now working properly. There's a note there about clearing the code.
I dont think that is the problem since I can watch the actuator go through all the motions
#9
I can only guess yes. all i can see is the nipple from the blend door that the actuator turns, it looks to move just as it should.
#10
You have good flow through the heater core and from what you can tell, you should be getting air flow over the heater core as well. That's all that is required for heat to get in the car.
The only thing I can think of is maybe there's an obstruction in the coolant line where you didn't test it. If you disconnected the heater hoses right at the firewall, then maybe there's something between the engine and the firewall, or if you disconnected at the coolant outlet manifold, maybe there's an obstruction right there in the manifold.
If that's not it, then I don't know what the answer is short of pulling the whole heater plenum out of the car and taking it apart to see what's wrong, but that's a huge job.
The only thing I can think of is maybe there's an obstruction in the coolant line where you didn't test it. If you disconnected the heater hoses right at the firewall, then maybe there's something between the engine and the firewall, or if you disconnected at the coolant outlet manifold, maybe there's an obstruction right there in the manifold.
If that's not it, then I don't know what the answer is short of pulling the whole heater plenum out of the car and taking it apart to see what's wrong, but that's a huge job.