I actually used the hose off the filler neck, and the second hose I disconnected right under the alternator.

Maybe the shaft on door is broken on the inside so it appears from the outside that it is working properly.

I need to remove the actuator and see if I can move it manually.

I have remove the dash from a 2000 f150 to change the heater core. Was about a 5 hour job. I would guess it's the same with sebring. Is there a write up on this? I would have to do all that to look at the door as well unless I cut out a section around the door and fiberglassed it back.

 

The Haynes manual has a section on removing the dash and heater plenum. It was probably easier on the F-150 where everything is bigger and easier to get to.

 

I have just pulled the the dash off again, pulled the blend door actuator motor off and turnde the blend door by hand, it seens to woork fine. the air coming out of the vents is 90*, but 90* just isnt that hot.

1. could it have something to do with a bad or wrong temp thermostat, and that would cause it not to fully flow through the heater core?

2. I am tossing around the idea of cutting a big enough hole in the side of the plenum to get in there and see whats going on. and then fiberglass the piece I cut out back in. any thoughts on this?

 

The thermostat has nothing to do with water flowing through the heater core. If the thermostat was stuck open, it would take the engine a long time to warm up, if at all in cold weather. This would probably set a code, but you could see that hapening when the temp gauge on the dash would be stuck down low.
Did you try to check heater performance with the blend door turned completely by hand?
If it's still not working then the only thing that comes to mind is that there's something blocking movement of the blend door.

 

I removed the actuator motor and turned the blend door by hand with the same 90* outcome. I guess I will have to get in there and put my eyes on the blend to be sure. I do remember some of the black foam coming out of the vents awhile ago, I guess that could be not allowing it close properly.

 

If you pull the whole thing out, it comes apart. That's how you get the heater and evaporator cores out.

 

I am having similar problems and wish to have a go at it before I take it to my favorite radiator shop that specializes in AC systems. I can get into the dash to a fair degree, but I need to know more about how the system works. Going to start a new thread here. I believe the air is being redirected to the right places, but I do not hear the door thump that used to when switching from AC to Heat and vice versa. (The foam inside has disintegrated as well on mine and has been blowing out for months.) The AC works great, the heat does not come on at all. I am thinking it is some actuator door?

 

There is no heat at all in the cabin; two mechanics checked out what they could: the resistor works fine, the blower motor works fine, there's no coolant leak on the passenger side, no water mist on the windshield nor coolant mist on the windshield either. When I turn the fan **** off I hear a whirring sound coming from behind the dashboard. I have no idea what it could be. The mechanics told me that they would have to take off the whole dashboard to get a glimpse of what the real problem is. I understand but this would cost me above 500$ in labor and I am not ready to fork out this amount on a vehicle that's that old. Now after reading a few other websites, it might be a faulty blend door actuator, the heater core itself, or the temperature blend door. When defrost is selected, only cold air is blown, and only a small portion of the windshield gets defrosted, though the air blown at it is cold. Could someone tell me what to do in order for me to spend as less as possible? Also I don't know if it's related, but when I turn the ignition off I sometimes hear the coolant gurgling. Thanks.

 

Try replacing the control unit on the dash. It's very easy to do, you can do it yourself. For less than $50 you can get a junkyard unit but be warned that the junkyard unit may have the same problems. There are a lot of them around. They were put into Sebring and Dodge Stratus sedans and Sebring convertibles from 2001 through 2006. Do NOT get one from a coupe.
To remove it, grab the bottom of the trim bezel that surrounds the control using your fingers and pull straight out. The bottom should pop out a little. Then with a trim tool or a wooden paint stirrer, pry the rest of the bezel off. There are a total of 6 clips holding it. Then reach around the back and disconnect the wires. If you get a junkyard unit it may have a bezel. If not, remove the screws holding the control unit to the bezel.
Dealers still carry the part. You can get a better price on line than walking up to the parts counter. I bought one on line after having no luck with junkyard parts. I think I paid about $115 or so. No problems since.
Some people have had luck re-soldering the connections inside the control unit. If you're good at soldering, try it.

 

I have a similar problem on my 2001 lx Sebring. A/C light starts blinking about minute after I turn it on. I noticed that my Rad fans kick off at the same time. Do you think it is a bad relay?