Thanks man, a less technical answer is what I was looking for. I've already tried the top one on bank 1 but like you already pointed out, it's not to easy to get to. I can see the harness and I just traced it to the sensor and attached my socket but the problem is, with as tight as they are, there isn't enough space to get any leverage to turn it...almost as if they built the whole dang car around the 02 sensor.

I ordered 2 direct OEM replacement sensors that will be here monday but in the mean time I'm trying to find a way to remove the old one at least.

I will keep trying and update soon. Thanks

 

"almost as if they built the whole dang car around the 02 sensor." Actually, that's pretty much what they did. The sensor, of course, was installed on the engine before it went into the car, then they dropped the car on the engine in the assembly plant. It seems like they rarely give a serious thought to the poor buggers who will be trying to fix these things. You can gain a little bit of extra room by removing the air cleaner box and the tubes leading to it and by pulling off the edge piece that borders the cowl at the back edge of the engine compartment. Just push it back on when you are through. You should be able to get a socket and wrench in there. Gripping and actually turning it will be the problem.

 

Update

Been sick the last few days and finally got around to changing the oxygen sensors of bank 1 upstream and downstream, Had a buddy give me a hand and it made things much easier...

We changed both sensors just to have to put the old ones back in.

Once we put the new ones in, The engine started shaking so bad that the car was rocking back and forth and smelled like something was burning, also, smoke was coming from both of the 02 sensors. engine light started blinking this time, So I scanned for more codes and now I have two extras to go with the first 3. I now have P0456 and P0300. I've already looked up the meaning for them but don't know why two new sensors would cause this.

The car was running so bad that we put the old ones back in and it seemed to run fine, so we left them in. I still have the extra codes.

I checked the part numbers to match them up and I read that they are a "Direct" replacement for the OE part number of my originals.

Any thoughts guys?

 

what brand?

 

Thanks for the reply.

After you asking the brand, I looked closer at it and compared to one of my old ones....and, it doesn't look like the others at all. "made it china" too.

This was supposed to be a Mopar and direct length and fit and everything but it's clearly not.

Auto stores around here don't carry the denso. Do you have a specific part number on the one that I need or can maybe link me one? or possible name a few other good brands to look for.

I do apologize that this is just lingering on....it's getting to be very frustrating for me too.

 

NTK will work as well

 

During the middle of the 2004 model year, Chrysler changed to what is called a "Next Generation Controller" (NGC).

If you have NGC, the plastic connector for O2 sensors will be square-ish. If not, round.

I have NGC and I replaced an O2 sensor a few years ago. I used the Bosch #15510, can order from Amazon for $24. Have not had any problem with it. Bosch invented O2 sensors.

 

bosh sensors usually do not work with Chrysler cars

 

Finally switched my 02 sensors for NTK. Did not have a tool to reset the codes and didn't feel like taking the wheel off to unhook the battery but I know if the problem has been fixed, the engine light should go off on it's own. I've been driving on it for a couple of days now and still nothing so any thoughts? Possibly not the 02 sensors at all?

 

You don't want to erase codes until you have read and understood all of them and have made the necessary repairs. That being said, you do not need to remove the wheel to disconnect the battery. On the top of the left fender well, under the hood, you will find a big, thick black cable attached to a stud. Remove the nut holding that cable, lift off the cable from the stud and the battery is disconnected. To make sure it doesn't reconnect accidentally, you slip the plastic loop over the stud and hold it in place with the nut that you just removed. Finger tight is plenty. It's very easy and convenient.