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2004 Sebring 2.7 Oxygen sensor problems.

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  #21  
Old 09-29-2014 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dcotter0579
You don't want to erase codes until you have read and understood all of them and have made the necessary repairs. That being said, you do not need to remove the wheel to disconnect the battery. On the top of the left fender well, under the hood, you will find a big, thick black cable attached to a stud. Remove the nut holding that cable, lift off the cable from the stud and the battery is disconnected. To make sure it doesn't reconnect accidentally, you slip the plastic loop over the stud and hold it in place with the nut that you just removed. Finger tight is plenty. It's very easy and convenient.

Hmmm, I never thought that would do the trick because after I removed that before, my car still had power just it would not start...

I'm starting to think I need to look for a bad ground somewhere, because the last week or so, I've been getting in my car in the morning when it's been dark out and my dash lights would all be dimmed and as I started it, they get brighter after it's on for a few minutes and then I leave the drive way.

Think the two problems are related?
 
  #22  
Old 09-29-2014 | 06:09 PM
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How old is the battery? A weak battery can cause the computers of the car to act in unpredictable ways.
If you trace that cable from the fender to the battery, you will see that it is the only battery ground, unless somebody else has run something else for some reason.
 
  #23  
Old 09-29-2014 | 06:52 PM
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Actually it's a brand new AGM battery. which fender ground? I want to look for it. I have ran extra grounds from couples years back when I was a car audio fanatic but not to much into it anymore...I did check all those ground and they seem to be fine with no corrosion or anything.

There was a dirty ground from the engine to the chasis that I found right next to one of the sensors I replaced but I cleaned it up and still no change.

If you can be more specific on the ground you mentioned I will look for it and check that one out.
 
  #24  
Old 09-29-2014 | 09:59 PM
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The only ground I was talking about was that negative battery cable from the battery to the post on the spring tower. You mentioned "after I removed that before, my car still had power". There should not be any power to anything (other than the airbag capacitor) once that cable is disconnected from that post. It is the only connection from battery negative to vehicle ground. If you still had power elsewhere then it could only be that someone has run another ground wire from the battery.
 
  #25  
Old 10-04-2014 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dcotter0579
The only ground I was talking about was that negative battery cable from the battery to the post on the spring tower. You mentioned "after I removed that before, my car still had power". There should not be any power to anything (other than the airbag capacitor) once that cable is disconnected from that post. It is the only connection from battery negative to vehicle ground. If you still had power elsewhere then it could only be that someone has run another ground wire from the battery.
Okay, cleared codes and checked grounds. Grounds look fine, all codes went away except the first the first two original ones that were p0038 and p0058.

Any other ideas guys? I'm kind of stuck at this point...
 
  #26  
Old 10-05-2014 | 10:16 AM
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OBDII Code P0038 DODGE - O2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit High | HelpForCars.net

P0058 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High Bank 2 Sensor 2 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

These are both the same code, one for bank 1 (rear) and one for bank 2 (front). They both relate to the heaters for the oxygen sensors. It's very unlikely that they both would be caused by wiring problems. The logical deduction is that either both sensors are faulty or the computer is faulty. Although you have replaced the sensors already, I would try another brand before replacing the computer. Always rule out the cheapest things first.
 
  #27  
Old 10-10-2014 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dcotter0579
OBDII Code P0038 DODGE - O2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit High | HelpForCars.net

P0058 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High Bank 2 Sensor 2 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

These are both the same code, one for bank 1 (rear) and one for bank 2 (front). They both relate to the heaters for the oxygen sensors. It's very unlikely that they both would be caused by wiring problems. The logical deduction is that either both sensors are faulty or the computer is faulty. Although you have replaced the sensors already, I would try another brand before replacing the computer. Always rule out the cheapest things first.
Do you or anyone else know the exact brand that came on my car? because, I'm just tired of throwing money for a "possible" fix. I would like to just try one last time on the sensors and just use the same kind that came on it.

the only thing that is written on the sensors that came off is this number 56029049AA. If you google or ebay search that, many brands make sensors with that number...
 
  #28  
Old 10-11-2014 | 10:24 AM
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Best source for OEM parts will be the dealer. Since we're not sure that the sensors are the problem, you might want to consider having the dealer make the repair. With the check engine light on, they will want to do a diagnostic and check for codes. Their equipment is more sophisticated and may pull some codes that you have not been able to get to. Their work should also be guaranteed. You are not taking it in there to have the O2 sensors replaced. You are taking it in there to have the car fixed. If their diagnosis is that the computer is bad and they will be happy to replace it for $1200, then thank them for the information, pay the diagnostic fee and leave. You can get a replacement computer for something in the neighborhood of $200 over the internet and install it yourself. At least you'll know that it's necessary and that you are not just throwing parts at it.
 
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