Many of the trouble shooting procedures in the shop manual require the use of a DRB III scan tool, which you don't have. I'm trying to interpret what you have done to see if it can be correlated to the "official" procedures. When you measured across the two wires of the harness connector I believe you found a voltage in the range of 7 millivolts. When you measured from the signal wire to ground you also got about 7 millivolts.
That voltage should be between about 4.6 and 5.2 volts.
Try this. With the ignition off, disconnect the sensor connection. Then disconnect the other end of that wire from the engine computer. Now, that wire should theoretically be isolated. Measure the resistance between that wire (the red and black one) and engine ground. If the resistance is less than 100 ohms, there's a short to ground somewhere in that wire. That could be where your signal voltage is leaking off to.
If the resistance is very high, measure the resistance between the red/black wire and the other wire. If that value is less than 100 ohms, there's a short between them that must be fixed.
If neither of those reveal a short, then the manual says the problem is with the PCM (engine computer). Let's hope that's not the case.
If there's a short, you'll need to either find the bad spot or bypass the harness with a new wire(s).

 

alright I tested the wires and theyre both good. I also tested each wire one at a time by using a cord-less drill battery and connecting the ecm end of the wire to the battery and connecting the ground of the battery to the jump start ground on my frame and the voltage at the other end of the wire was exactly the same as when i tested the battery itself. I did that with both wires and found no voltage drop. So I hooked it all back up and tested at the sensor end again. Now I am getting a reading of 4.9 Volts. The 112 code disappeared and the 113 is the only code its reading out and its still running wierd. The resistance does change tho in different temperatures when I tested the sensor. I dont get it? could the sensor still be bad?

thanks a lot for your help

 

The sensor could still be bad. It may be changing but could still be out of the proper range. I would definitely change the sensor before changing the PCM. You might try cleaning all the contacts in the circuit with electrical contact cleaner. It can't hurt, could help and doesn't cost much.
If the signal from the sensor indicates an intake air temperature that is significantly different from the actual temperature. it could fool the computer into running too rich or too lean for the actual conditions. But here, the computer is aware that the signal is not right. I don't know what its fallback strategy is for that situation. You would think there would be one. Rough running is not environmentally friendly.
Despite the fact that you had all that work done on the car, I would still want to positively rule out a vacuum leak. One easy check is to take a piece of tubing and hold one end close to your ear and put the other end close to every vacuum connection and hose you can reach. You can hear a little hiss if there's a leak. It's cheap to do it yourself.

 

Well yeah i would think the PCM is fine its putting 4.9 volts to the sensor. I had o'reilly auto parts order me a new sensor it will be there tomorrow and we'll see if that fixes it. It doesnt make any hissing sounds that Ive heard and Ive visually inspected the lines but Ill check again.

I also have had a noisy exhaust from somewhere in the front of the car and while i was under it before I noticed that the bottom two Bolts that bolt the pipe to the manifold and missing. The bolts are there but the heads are snapped off so I have to take the manifold off and drill them out. Do you know if theres any special trick to getting the rear exhaust manifold off? Im guess Ill have to unbolt a couple mounts and tilt the engine a little to make room.

 

Well I got the new IAT sensor and installed it and it changed nothing, still even reads out the 113 code. The sensor looks the same but the reciept reads Air Chrg sensor which I thought was wrong at first but he said its the same thing. SO now im thinking the computer must be bad

 

Here's the shop manual instruction on removing the exhaust manifold:
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist. (or place it on jackstands or ramps)
3. Remove complete exhaust system.
4. Remove rear engine mount and transaxle bracket.
5. Remove exhaust manifold heat shield.
6. Disconnect O2 sensor connector.
7. Remove exhaust manifold retaining fasteners and remove manifold.
8. Remove and discard manifold gasket.


When re-installing, tighten the bolts working from the center ones toward the outside, tightening in three steps up to 200 inch-pounds. (Note, that's inch-pounds, not foot-pounds.)

You may be able to press those broken bolts out rather than drilling them out.

Tighten the nuts that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold to only 21 ft-lbs.

Replace the gasket with a new one.

 

thanks a lot, got that problem and now i realize another one.. the ac stopped working last week and also the radiator fans do not turn on. ac has always worked fine and suddenly it doesnt, and if the car idles for to long it overheats, when your driving its fine tho. I tried to find the relay or fuses for the fans and the compressor but the fuse box cover just has the fuses numbered, no labels. Is there a place online that you know of where i can find a fuse box diagram? I dont have the owners manual

thanks a lot for all your help

 

Nevermind i got that one fixed myself lol