2005 Sebring tranny issues! HELP ASAP
#1
2005 Sebring tranny issues! HELP ASAP
New to the site and I don't plan on being on this site long because I will be getting rid of this death-trap car as soon as possible. But first it needs to be in suitable condition to sell. Right now, it is not, and as you can see from the title of this thread it is because of a transmission issue. Or multiple transmission issues. Who knows? Anyway! My 2005 Sebring convertible v6 2.7L is a used car, had 120k miles before me and had a clean carfax, seemed like a good buy for a nice looking car! WRONG. I have put an additional $3000.00 into this car in replacement parts alone, afraid to put anything in for comfort because as soon as I do the engine light comes on and yet another problem arises. On to the current issue with this bucket of bolts; my transmission, like many others of other owners, clunks while down shifting from 2nd to 1st gear. But let me start from the beginning. When I turn the car on, my engine has a low purr to it, unlike anything I have heard from the engine and I traced the sound to a whirling whinning sound emitted from the transmission. My speedometer sits at about 15mph even though I am stationary (I realize this is due to the output shaft sensor being faulty, P0720) But on top of that, if I try to put the top down the windows and top "hiccup" and take about 2 minutes to go down all of the way. After I have driven the car for awhile these issues stop but the transmission continues.
So, gauges are wacky. Convertible doesn't go down in the 7-10 seconds it used to. In addition to those issues, when I put my car into reverse it clunks and violently shakes the car to the point that I have to readjust my rear-view. I have subwoofers and they don't do that much damage... Driving in reverse seems fine after waiting 10-15 seconds for the car to situate itself and decide it wants to go. Putting the car in drive is another thing, it clunks again just as violent as putting it into reverse. But when I press on the gas pedal the RPM goes up but the car barely rolls forward. After another 7-8 seconds the car kicks again and off we go. Clunking in between each gear shift. When I am at a stopsign/light and I come to a complete stop my car clunks some more, downshifting from 2nd to 1st. This is the most violent shake and has actually caused me to inch forward even though my foot is on the brake. It is almost like a fair ride without the cotton candy and turkey legs...
The last issue is that my thermostat gauge does not react to the heat of the engine ( or read the temperature ) for a good 15 minutes. After that it begins to rise to the mark in the middle, which I recognize as normal operating temp at 190. I have had coolant issues before and had the entire system replaced as advised by mechanics at the dealership and mobile1 alike.
For those interested in the exact engine light / OEM codes here they are: p0720 (low output sensor speed above 15 mph), p0731 (Gear ratio error in first gear), p0700 (Transaxle control system fault), p0128 (coolant temperature is "always low" )
I really do not like this car at this point and a transmission error has got me a bit scared. I don't want to put in another 1600 bucks just to trade in the car for 3000... A mechanic friend of mine who has worked on my car for numerous things said that my 1st gear could possibly be cracked and the teeth have shifted. much like a manual sync can crack and cause uneasy shifting in a manual car. (I am decent with cars, not professional but still. I keep my gearhead focused on the engine, rather than the rest of the car...)
Anyway... My car has given up on me once again and I am not looking forward to another expensive fix. So I come to you, Chrysler Forum, for help and your infinite knowledge on what exactly is wrong with my car, why is it clunking, and how can I fix it?
So, gauges are wacky. Convertible doesn't go down in the 7-10 seconds it used to. In addition to those issues, when I put my car into reverse it clunks and violently shakes the car to the point that I have to readjust my rear-view. I have subwoofers and they don't do that much damage... Driving in reverse seems fine after waiting 10-15 seconds for the car to situate itself and decide it wants to go. Putting the car in drive is another thing, it clunks again just as violent as putting it into reverse. But when I press on the gas pedal the RPM goes up but the car barely rolls forward. After another 7-8 seconds the car kicks again and off we go. Clunking in between each gear shift. When I am at a stopsign/light and I come to a complete stop my car clunks some more, downshifting from 2nd to 1st. This is the most violent shake and has actually caused me to inch forward even though my foot is on the brake. It is almost like a fair ride without the cotton candy and turkey legs...
The last issue is that my thermostat gauge does not react to the heat of the engine ( or read the temperature ) for a good 15 minutes. After that it begins to rise to the mark in the middle, which I recognize as normal operating temp at 190. I have had coolant issues before and had the entire system replaced as advised by mechanics at the dealership and mobile1 alike.
For those interested in the exact engine light / OEM codes here they are: p0720 (low output sensor speed above 15 mph), p0731 (Gear ratio error in first gear), p0700 (Transaxle control system fault), p0128 (coolant temperature is "always low" )
I really do not like this car at this point and a transmission error has got me a bit scared. I don't want to put in another 1600 bucks just to trade in the car for 3000... A mechanic friend of mine who has worked on my car for numerous things said that my 1st gear could possibly be cracked and the teeth have shifted. much like a manual sync can crack and cause uneasy shifting in a manual car. (I am decent with cars, not professional but still. I keep my gearhead focused on the engine, rather than the rest of the car...)
Anyway... My car has given up on me once again and I am not looking forward to another expensive fix. So I come to you, Chrysler Forum, for help and your infinite knowledge on what exactly is wrong with my car, why is it clunking, and how can I fix it?
#3
Didn't flush the system or change the filter but I added onto the tranny fluid that was already in the car at the time of purchase when I bought the car because the fluid was low. I added another bottle (ATM+4) just the other day. I have read that getting a fluid flush and filter change could make things worse, so I am a little hesitant to do that right now in fear that my transmission will chew itself up... I heard from a mechanic that drove my car that my first gear might be sundered or cracked and that the teeth are not aligned right, forcing the downshift. Is that correct? Or even possible?
#4
"I heard from a mechanic that drove my car that my first gear might be sundered or cracked and that the teeth are not aligned right, forcing the downshift. Is that correct? Or even possible?" I have no idea what he's talking about. Your car has 120,000 miles on it. It was due for a transmission fluid change 60,000 miles ago. If it is continually getting low on fluid, then it's leaking somewhere. The most common source of leakage is the solenoid pack. You could replace that yourself for under $100 if you have minimal tools and knowhow. Search the forum here and the internet generally for discussions about that.
Also, for relatively low cost, you can replace the fluid. Those two things have a fairly good chance of taking care of your transmission problems. Doing nothing stands no chance of fixing the problem.
"I have read that getting a fluid flush and filter change could make things worse" I hope you don't take that attitude about your engine oil, antifreeze, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. If so, it would go a long way toward explaining why your car has become a "bucket of bolts".
Also, for relatively low cost, you can replace the fluid. Those two things have a fairly good chance of taking care of your transmission problems. Doing nothing stands no chance of fixing the problem.
"I have read that getting a fluid flush and filter change could make things worse" I hope you don't take that attitude about your engine oil, antifreeze, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. If so, it would go a long way toward explaining why your car has become a "bucket of bolts".
#5
First of all, I take care of my car. I was assured that the car was kept up with and I have done so as well. Kept with the same brand of oil and changed every 3000 miles, along with the filter. Since there is a factory defect with 2.7L v6 I had the oil pan dropped 1/2 an inch to reduce the chance of dirt and other unwanted items getting sucked into my engine. Anti-freeze was flushed when my coolant system was replaced and my brake fluid is fine. Power steering is still a clear amber color. This car is in fact a bucket of bolts. This engine is defective and is well known for it. Does that go for all chrysler sebrings? No. However, it does stand for mine.
Back to the topic, I had the car checked out by the dealership and a second opinion by a well known garage in town, they both confirmed that my first gear is shot, and has some teeth-alignment issues. This may be because of a cracked gear, or bent teeth. Based on my knowledge of manual transmissions; gears may crack under high stress such as driving 45mph in 1st gear. Usually the engine would blow from taching out but in my case, it may be due to too many open throttle starts. I am aware that the previous owner of my car was a teenager, but his father took care of the car. Or so I thought.
In addition to the 1st gear's issues, my solenoids are fine and not leaking. Although my torque converter clutch is going out and two of the clutch dampening springs are already "shot" so to speak.
I suppose my question is answered. Just a follow up of the damages.
Sorry Dcotter if I insulted you or your obvious love for sebrings in my rant against my car, but I find my car a time-bomb waiting to go off.
I don't know how you can keep up with two late-model sebrings and not want to tear your hair out. Perhaps you drive a mustang or a vette? Now those are some real cars.
Thank you for the help,
--Sebring7
Back to the topic, I had the car checked out by the dealership and a second opinion by a well known garage in town, they both confirmed that my first gear is shot, and has some teeth-alignment issues. This may be because of a cracked gear, or bent teeth. Based on my knowledge of manual transmissions; gears may crack under high stress such as driving 45mph in 1st gear. Usually the engine would blow from taching out but in my case, it may be due to too many open throttle starts. I am aware that the previous owner of my car was a teenager, but his father took care of the car. Or so I thought.
In addition to the 1st gear's issues, my solenoids are fine and not leaking. Although my torque converter clutch is going out and two of the clutch dampening springs are already "shot" so to speak.
I suppose my question is answered. Just a follow up of the damages.
Sorry Dcotter if I insulted you or your obvious love for sebrings in my rant against my car, but I find my car a time-bomb waiting to go off.
I don't know how you can keep up with two late-model sebrings and not want to tear your hair out. Perhaps you drive a mustang or a vette? Now those are some real cars.
Thank you for the help,
--Sebring7
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