Further to the above on the Topic of properly matched engine to Vehicle.............An Engine that is too large in capacity for a particualar vehicle will also pack it in earlier than one that is properly matched.

It is not good for an engine to be underworked any more than overworked.No charge

 

I'm not willing to take it apart... mine or the new(er) one!
First, I had two gallons of water in my crankcase... to me that spells disaster. I couldn't trust any of the bearings or moving parts in a swamped engine. plus, when those aluminum heads get hot and warp, they don't unwarp.
What I'm looking for is a way to make sure that the engine I am installing is 'gunk free'. I found something called a 2Twisty flush while researching... never heard of it and don't know what benefit or damage it would offer. It consists of mixing ATF fluid and motor oil, running it for a few hours, draining while warm - then replacing the filter and adding new oil.

They claim it's like doing 2 oil changes back-to-back. I thought if I did that and then just had the oil changed every 1000 miles for the first couple thousand, maybe it would clean it to a point that it won't fail on me like the first one.

Let me know your feelings.

 

To the Chrysler engineers here: If it's my fault that my engine blew up, and the car manufacturer could do no wrong whatsoever, then how do you explain the aluminum flash that was on the machined surfaces of the inside of my dead engine? How do you explain a cut o-ring on my primary tensioner? How do you explain an oil pickup tube clogged with aluminum flakes? How do you explain a loose conrod cap? Did I not change the oil with a high enough frequency? Wasn't 3000 miles enough time? Wasn't Mobil1 5W30 good enough? How is this somehow my fault?

 

Good one..........Well said. I know what Flakes your Talking about.

Cheers