Hi Everyone,

I'm hoping someone can give me some pointers and tools required to complete a replacement of a front wheel bearing on my Sebring.

2007 Sebring Limited 3.5L

I do most of my own work and this shouldn't be too much of an issue for me, however I've never done a wheel bearing on this make/model before. Since this is my only source of transportation, I'd like to make sure I have everything I need before pulling anything off just to find out I need something I don't have in my toolbox.

My questions are -

1. What are the tools required beyond the lugs and calipers?

2. I dont' have any impact tools, so I'm hoping to can get the main spindle nut off without one. What size socket is required for this?

3. Other sizes of sockets or Torx needed?

4. I plan to get the MOOG bearing from a local shop. Will this present a problem for the OEM bearing on the other side?

5. Will this knock my alignment out after the change? I just had the alignment done. The original toe was -0.15 moved back to 0.00, but the camber went from 3.3 to 4.1. (just out of spec - 2.0 to 4.0)

I'd like to have everything before I begin. Also, any tips anyone wishes to add is greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

 

I had to change hub in my 2002 Sebring sedan, but I don't know what it is in 2007.

 

Actually, it was quite easy.

The only issue I ran into was having to hold the CV shaft in so I could get to the 4 bolts on the back. The CV boot was in the way just enough to make it a pita to get the socket on the bolt. I first used a small 3/8 breaker just to loosen them up so I could ratchet them out easier. Then went back to the breaker to snug them down after I put the new part on.

The 32MM hub nut wasn't bad either. My 1/2 breaker with a rental socket set from Advanced Auto took care of that.

Car is quiet as a church mouse now.

Thanks for the views.

 

Yes, I know this is a 4 1/2 year old thread.

Anyway, "quite easy" is not the term I would use. I finished replacing both front hubs yesterday on my '07 Sebring with a 3.5L engine. Having an air compressor made getting the rusty stuck nuts and bolts off much easier. It was the rusty stuck hubs that were a PITA. The original hubs had 111,000 miles on them.

The driver side came off with a lot of PB Blaster and 10-15 minutes of pounding with a 3 lb hammer. That was the easy side. I spent way over an hour on the other side, using the same technique, before it finally came off. I even reinstalled the old rotor and secured it with a couple of lug nuts for added surface area to hammer on. I was also replacing the front brakes, so it didn't matter if I messed up the rotor. That thing was stuck really well.

Between the front brake job and replacing the two front hubs plus buying parts on my own (I purchased Moog hubs off Amazon) I figure I saved around $700 in labor and inflated parts costs that some shop would have charged. I guess a little aggravation with the hammer was worth it.

One thing I'd like to mention that was barely touched upon earlier in this thread has to do with the CV boot. This is for anyone who finds this thread via a Google search and is planning on doing this job, as I did. The CV boot inhibits being able to fully get the 15mm socket on the 4 bolts that hold the hub in place. If you push the end of the shaft inward you can move it an inch or more out of the way. I was planning to remove the outer CV boot clamp and replace it (they are not reusable) but I found that wasn't necessary.