96 LX stalls when put in Drive, not reverse
#1
96 LX stalls when put in Drive, not reverse
Hello all, I am new here and trying to get a handle on this problem. I bought this car knowing it had a problem. It is a 1996 LX coupe with 2.0 engine and auto trans with overdrive. Let's start by what I have done so far. The check engine light was on. I read the codes and found the TPS P0122 and 0123. The trans was shifting erratically when cold. I replaced the TPS and the trans shifted normal. I now only get TPS "A circuit low". I checked all the wiring and found no breaks or problems with connectors. Now here is the problem in order of events. When cold, it runs like a top for about 20 minutes, or when operating temp is reached. Then it will start to spit and sputter as IF the ignition is being turned off and it gets worse to the point where it eventually is no longer driveable. However it never dies completely. Yesterday I warmed it up without driving it and found that it only stalls when I put it in a forward gear. And at that time the check engine light comes on. If I put it in reverse, it never skips a beat, and the check light never comes on. So, so far I conclude it is a thermal related problem which interracts with the trans causing the "A circuit low" code. That code never shows *until* the first "sputter" occurs, and that *only* happens in Drive. Has anyone ever heard of this condition? And if so, what was the cure?
Thank you,
Jeff
Thank you,
Jeff
#3
Thank you, I will check that tomorrow. I did check the wiring at the frame under the air cleaner and going to the computer. The wires are in the open under the plastic cover. I found no chafed wires there and taped them up for assurance so they cannot chafe against the frame. I am curious as to why this only occurs in drive, or any forward gear, and not in reverse?
Jeff
Jeff
#5
Ahhh, that might be but there are no wires near the front engine mount, nor are there any that can be "pinched" by the motion of the engine or trans. Of course it is possible a wire is broken inside the insulation. The problem occurs instantaneously before the engine even has a chance to rock, and only when hot. I have ordered the factory manuals and hope they will shed some light. I hope they arrive today. At this point I am just grasping at straws.
Thank you,
Jeff
Thank you,
Jeff
#6
Follow up;
I again disassembled everything and checked all the wiring. I found no scuffed or chafed wires. Checked all the wires for continuity while flexing them and nothing was wrong. I then got the notion that it might be oxidation on the connectors and pins, although they looked shiny and clean. I got out the Deoxit D5 and sprayed the PCM sockets and pins, as well as the TPM connector. Put everything back together and viola! She runs like a champ again. The factory manual was a big help in tracing out the wires and connectors.
So, on the road again!
Jeff
I again disassembled everything and checked all the wiring. I found no scuffed or chafed wires. Checked all the wires for continuity while flexing them and nothing was wrong. I then got the notion that it might be oxidation on the connectors and pins, although they looked shiny and clean. I got out the Deoxit D5 and sprayed the PCM sockets and pins, as well as the TPM connector. Put everything back together and viola! She runs like a champ again. The factory manual was a big help in tracing out the wires and connectors.
So, on the road again!
Jeff
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