I have a 1997 Sebring convertible with the 2.5L V6.

I have been experiencing a few concerns - in chronological order:

1. first to appear was after the engine is warm and has been driven a few miles, the oil pressure light will flicker while stopped at a traffic signal in Drive. Goes away on acceleration.

2. While driving at steady highway speeds the engine will stall/quit. Vehicle continues to coast. Lights all work but engine is off. After a few hundred feet or more of coasting the engine will restart by itself and vehicle drives normally. I had just left it in drive and never touched the key and it just started to operate normally again.

3. After driving until engine is warm, transmission in Park, occasionally has an erratic idle speed. Idle speed goes up and down between 900-1500. This has happened only a couple times and I continued to drive the vehicle before long so I did not observe the erratic idle for more than 2 minutes before moving the vehicle.

4. After driving until engine is warm, vehicle stalled on acceleration from a stop sign. Oil pressure light was flickering at the stop sign. Vehicle restarted and drove normally after about 1 minute of trying (white knuckled-dark-sitting across 2 lanes in the middle of a busy and fast 3 lane road). this has happened once.

No MIL lignt, no codes registering on the computer available for loan at the local parts store.

My thoughts are:
contaminated fuel - just put in some dry gas
plugged fuel filter - my next step
fuel pump
MAF?
PCV - though it sounds like its fine, might replace just because its cheap and couldn't hurt.
Fuel pressure regulator
Whatever passes for an Idle Air Controller on the Sebring.

Anyone have any experience with a similar concern or thoughts?

Thanks!
Jesse Staton
Detroit, MI

 

there is a tsb for a revised egr valve.heres the tsb #18-020-01.ive seen them go bad with out any codes .heres the new part # if you need it.4287646ac this is direct from chrysler.as far as your oil light coming on i would change your oil sending unit.when you change it you will notice one wire and the opening next to it in the connector will have a wire blockoff.little peice of plastic where secondwire belongs.well after replace the sensor,remove that little plastic piece.just toss it out.let me know moe

 

OK, so here is the update.
I changed the fuel filter (who's crazy idea was it to put it there?!!) and still stalled.
I replaced the blower motor, which only was working on HI by the way and blowing any replacement resistor blocks, and have not had a problem since. I took it to a shop to get it diagnosed and they found no engine codes and no problem. Guess the blower motor was just drawing more power than the alternator could replace and either the fuel pump stopped pumping enough fuel or the ignition or injection system did not have enough power from the battery.
Well that was an interesting week - hope that really solves it but its been a week since the blower motor replacement.
thanks everyone for your help.