98 jxi no crank
#1
98 jxi no crank
why would my 98 jxi only crank with a jump
ive had starter battery solenoid checked new relay installed it clicks when i turn key
fuse # 8 is good also
i thought maybe a short somewhere did the test light at neg battery test light came on
removed every fuse never got the light to go off even removed radio
any suggestions greatly appreaciated
ive had starter battery solenoid checked new relay installed it clicks when i turn key
fuse # 8 is good also
i thought maybe a short somewhere did the test light at neg battery test light came on
removed every fuse never got the light to go off even removed radio
any suggestions greatly appreaciated
#2
Might be corrosion at the battery terminals. It is able to pass a small current but not the 100 amps necessary to crank. Try removing the battery cables at the battery, cleaning them and replacing them. Can't hurt, might help.
Not sure what you did with that test light by your description.
Not sure what you did with that test light by your description.
#4
i disconnected the neg battery cable and connected test light between cable and battery post and the light came on
i was told that means i had a short
mine came on took out every fuse light still stayed on !
i had battery checked under load and was told it was good
after the jump start it will start for 1 or 2 times immediately afterwards then nothing
its like it has a short when i crank it but battery holds its charge
i was told that means i had a short
mine came on took out every fuse light still stayed on !
i had battery checked under load and was told it was good
after the jump start it will start for 1 or 2 times immediately afterwards then nothing
its like it has a short when i crank it but battery holds its charge
#5
The test light being on at first doesn't, by itself, mean there's a short. Pulling all the fuses and still having the test light on could indicate a problem. It would be worthwhile to put an ammeter in there to see how much current is being drawn.
If there's a short, it sounds like it's between the fuse box and the battery, so pulling fuses doesn't interrupt it. Either that, or it's in an unfused circuit, like the headlights, which have circuit breakers.
Did you pull all fuses in both fuse boxes?
I can't understand how the battery can be holding a charge if a short is present.
Have you checked for corrosion at the starter itself?
If there's a short, it sounds like it's between the fuse box and the battery, so pulling fuses doesn't interrupt it. Either that, or it's in an unfused circuit, like the headlights, which have circuit breakers.
Did you pull all fuses in both fuse boxes?
I can't understand how the battery can be holding a charge if a short is present.
Have you checked for corrosion at the starter itself?
#6
thanks for your reply dc
i pulled every fuse 1 by 1 in both fuse boxes only the fuses not the relays or circuit breakers
i had the starter checked at parts store was told it was good i think ill take it off again and check for corrosion and take it to another store to check
could i run a cable direct from battery to starter to check if there is a problem with original wiring like corrosion inside cable or shorting where i cant see it?
i pulled every fuse 1 by 1 in both fuse boxes only the fuses not the relays or circuit breakers
i had the starter checked at parts store was told it was good i think ill take it off again and check for corrosion and take it to another store to check
could i run a cable direct from battery to starter to check if there is a problem with original wiring like corrosion inside cable or shorting where i cant see it?
#7
If you've pulled the starter off, then you've probably broken up the corrosion and eliminated that as a problem. Jumping directly from the battery to the starter doesn't sound like a good idea. You would be playing with a LOT of current there (100+ amps) and if something went wrong it could cause serious damage.
You can buy a digital volt-ohmmeter pretty inexpensively these days. It should have an ammeter function good enough to get a handle on the current flow from this mysterious short.
With everything off in the car but with all the fuses in place, the current draw should be about 0.050 amps or less. That represents the current drawn by the clock and receiver for the keyless remote, which are both always on. If the current is much more than that, then you've got a short somewhere that you'll need to track down.
You wll also be able to check the resistance in the wiring for the starter circuit, which should be very close to zero ohms.
You can buy a digital volt-ohmmeter pretty inexpensively these days. It should have an ammeter function good enough to get a handle on the current flow from this mysterious short.
With everything off in the car but with all the fuses in place, the current draw should be about 0.050 amps or less. That represents the current drawn by the clock and receiver for the keyless remote, which are both always on. If the current is much more than that, then you've got a short somewhere that you'll need to track down.
You wll also be able to check the resistance in the wiring for the starter circuit, which should be very close to zero ohms.
#10
ok ok getting ahead of your self there my man First things is first. Your main issue is that u can not start the car unless u have jumper cables attached right?
That means your battery is not strong enough to turn over the starter That is the main issue. Second how and where did u load test the battery? Did u drive it up to a store like advanced auto and have them test it there or did u take it out and have them test it out of the car?
That means your battery is not strong enough to turn over the starter That is the main issue. Second how and where did u load test the battery? Did u drive it up to a store like advanced auto and have them test it there or did u take it out and have them test it out of the car?