Finally they got it right, after bringing it back once already! My question is that everybody who works on my car keeps clearing the scan tool code p1494 (manufacturer control ?)and apparently no one really knows what this code means or how to fix it, keeps coming back on at various mileages,(service engine soon light) Am I an Idiot? is there any way to make this light go away with out having to take it to the dealer? Thanks for any help or suggestions
98 sebring JXI convertible V6 2.5L AutoStick 156K

 

I found this information by plugging the code p1494 into Dogpile.com:

P1494 is the code for the leak detection pump and or system, which is part of the early evaporative emission system. (Fuel tank fumes)
It’s there to allow the computer to run an integrity test of the fuel tank, lines and carbon canister’s ability to contain all of the fumes coming from the tank and all line associated with the system.
The code could be set for a number of reasons such as a faulty gas cap, cracked vacuum lines, solenoids & vent valves stuck to the pump itself.
It can be a very difficult fault to cure being it doesn’t take a very big leak anywhere in the system to set the code and that’s if it’s a leak and not an electrical or mechanical fault.
Good luck and keep us informed of what you find.

irdaneel cont;
Find a mechanic who can do a smoke test of your evap system. They will likely find cracked hoses or bad connections in that system. Shouldn't be too expensive to fix. (usually)

 

Hmmm, I did have the fuel pump replaced a while back and dammed if the mechanic didn't break something to do with the fuel tank "fill" andventing system? The reason I say this is because whenI try to put gas in my car now,the damm gas pump keeps clicking off and gas spits back at me everytime I try to fuel up[:@]
Thankyou! Irdaneel (what kinda name is that?xoxo)for your information, and will let you know what the fix will be as soon as I can get it back to the shop. 156k new transmission, engine light that won't seem to go away anytime soon? and I still love my american made car!

 

Your mechanic broke or more likely kinked the internal vent hose that runs from the fuel tank up the fill pipe and sets just below where the nozzle fits. What's happening is the air in the tank can't escape during the fill process so the incoming fuel causes the pressure in the tank and fill pipe to rise. Of course the fuel nozzle is designed to sense the rise in pressure and thinks the tank is full, so it shuts off.

That may be all that's wrong or there may be an additional hose or connection on top of the tank that he "overlooked". In any case, your best plan will be to drop the tank (near empty would be best), inspect the vent line and the connections at the fuel pump for the evap and fuel delivery, then remount the tank. It's not difficult, it's just a real pain.

 

Bandaide is likely on the right track. The only addition I have is that before you drop the tank, if the 98 is setup like my 97, from under the rear seat you remove a panel to access the fuel pump and related hoses. (Passenger Side) You might take a look there first because that would be where the mechanic was working when he replaced the pump. There are several connections there, as well as access to some small lengths of hose to check.

If you do, be sure to re-seal the panel down well. That is a "wheel-splash" zone. If your passenger complains of a cold derrier when seated there, you may not have done enough!