So I assume the blower motor resistor on my 2004 Sebring sedan finally gave out today because only the 3 and 4 fan speed settings work now. I'm guessing the dealership would charge me alot to replace this part so I thought perhaps I could change it myself if it wasn't too complicated. I looked around on the net and found some 02 Sebring replacement instructions from a different forum but it was fairly brief. So I'd appreciate it if someone who's done this themselves recently could take some time to provide me with some help or at least point me to a good internet resource or whatever that does, whether it's another website or perhaps a thread on here.

I have a few questions, and keep in mind my mechanical knowledge is fairly average, but I think with proper instruction I could do it:

1) What tools do I need? Adjustable wrench or a certain size(s)? Info like that.

2) I've read that the new resistor no longer fits into the slot that the original occupies and some people said that they had to file the slot to accommodate the larger size of the redesigned resistor module. Does that mean you have to file all of the edges of the slot or just one certain side?

3) Does the battery have to be disconnected before swapping the old part out or anything like that?

4) As far as acquiring the part, do I just call up a local dealer and ask them to order a blower motor resistor and that's it, do I go to a parts store, what?

Beyond those questions, instructions would be nice from someone who's done this on an '04 Sebring. I understand I'm asking for a lot of info but I'll take whatever I can get and would greatly appreciate if anyone could take the time to assist me or point me to a resource. Thanks.

 

2 8mm screws hold the resistor in the HVAC housing call a dealer take u 20 min to do

 

You can just go to the dealer and buy the part. They go bad pretty often so the dealer is likely to have it in stock.
If you feel more comfortable working with the battery disconnected, then disconnect the negative post located on the spring tower on the driver's side of the car under the hood. It even has a little loop in the plastic which you slip over the post to safely park the cable and nut until you are ready to hook it back up. It's not really necessary.
Remove the "silencer panel" below the glove box. Look for a place where a bunch of wires goes into the heater-A/C plenum. Unplug the wires and remove the two screw holding the thing that the wires plug into. That's the resistor.
The new one will be a bit fatter. With a rat-tail file or a Dremel tool or something similar, enlarge the opening until the new one fits in easily. When that's done, put it all back together and you're finished. I've done it, and it's not much of a job.
Chances are you'll finish the job in less time than it would take you to have it done. Not that you can do it quicker than a pro, but the pro has other, bigger jobs lined up that he will need to get to before he can get to yours, so you get to sit in the dealer's waiting room reading old magazines while Oprah is on the TV.

 

Thanks alot for the info, that helps fill in the gaps for me from what I've read other places and it doesn't sound too bad from the way you describe it and what I've seen elsewhere. The dealership did indeed have the part in stock the day I called. It cost $36. So do you know how often these go bad? I've had my car for roughly 3 years, I purchased it when it had 39K miles on it, and it has 66K miles now and this the first time I've had to deal with this particular issue. Can I expect another 3 years with the new part or does the car just eat up more of these more quickly as time goes on?

 

I've owned a 2002 sedan since new and replaced the resistor once last year. I'm sure there are resistors older than that still out there. Chances of having to do it again on your car are probably not large. In other words, don't stock up a supply.

 

Just did this one myself, boy was it a fun position to lay in and work on this. Prepare for a sore neck.

I ordered the $19 one off of RockAuto.

Tools I used:

Adjustable wrench (remove nut holding the cover below glove compartment)
Socket Screwdriver w/ 8mm attachment (to remove 2 bolts from resistor)
Small ratchet w/ 8mm attachment (remove bolt that attached wires to a plastic bracket)
Flathead screw driver (to remove red clip from old resistor)
Metal File (enlarge opening for new resistor / its a little thicker)


Recommended Process
1 - Remove cover underneath the glove compartment near the passenger feet (1 nut w/ adjustable wrench). It slides out fairly easily.
2 - Locate the big harness underneath. Remove the two bolts holding it in (socket screwdriver w/ 8 mm attachment).
3 - Remove the bolt holding the attached wires to the plastic clip (8mm ratchet). This will help in dropping the resistor out.
4 - Drop the resistor out.
5 - Remove red clip with flathead.
6 - Disconnect harness from resistor
7 - Do everything in reverse (sans the red clip), but with new resistor. You'll need to file the opening to enlarge it for the newer resistor.


My old resistor was visibly charred. Not bad, but you can clearly tell it was the culprit. The old part was a very strange design...

I've seen that the dealerships want $175-225 to fix this.

 

My 2004 SEBRING LX fan causes a loud vibrating noise when it is blowing on settings 3 and 4. It seems to operate normally on the 2 lower speeds. Is something about to fail?

 

possible blower motor or crap inside the wheel

 

Has anyone tried actually soldering in NEW resistors (after cutting ot the old ones form the burned unit(? The transistor resistors at Radio Shack/Tandy only cost 0.5 cents each, if you have the wiring diagram, and can identify the OHMS for each of the 3 speed resistors, then you could solder then on the existing unit. Ensure nothing touchs the sides, as they do get hot and could start a fire or smoke.
I got my new replacement unit for $20, at Parts Source(Canadian Tire) and it fit perfectly without any modifications, so did not bother in the winter to mess with fixing the old one. Let me know if someone does solder in new resistors and what they were. Thanks

 

In the unit I took out, the plastic appeared to have melted/charred over the resistors.. unless this was the original design?