Continuing info of the 2001 Sebring 2.7 eng overheating problem.
I finally got the P1489 & P1490 Fan Circuit errors to disappear. I disconnected the Neg connection at the battery and let the computer rest for a few minutes. Apparently it reset "or forgot" the errors.

I reconnected my Autotap connection to my laptop and started the engine. I watched the temp slowly rise to 220*F (took about 15 minutes). At 200*F the top radiator hose got hot which tells me the thermostat is opening. I opened the bleed valve and no air escaped. There is plenty of coolant in the system. I also turned on the AC and the off center fan did not run.

Problem: Neither cooling fan will turn on. Remember in the earlier post I jumped the relay socket connections in the engine compartment fuse box and both cooling fans will run. I also bench tested both relays and both are Norm open at rest and they closed when I jumped the solenoid coil terminals.

Conclusions:
1. Thermostat is opening at about 200*F, a little high.
2. Temp gauge is working???? because it causes the Autotap program and the dash analog gauge to slowly rise.
3. I can't prove the water pump is working yet.
4. I need the stupid cooling fans to turn on at some point.
5. It appears to this novice that the signal is not being received from the computer to do this.

Please help ole Grandpa fix this so he can get it out of his garage. I am a long distance from any Chrysler dealer and I don't want to haul it.
Thanks, Joe

 

wish i could provide you with some more help for your problem. Have you swapped the thermostat yet? just something I would do....

 

I decided to go to the closest Chrysler dealer and appeal to the Service Writer with my problem. He told me the fan relays did not turned on until 212*-218* F. So I came home and started my test again. Earlier, I had terminated the test at about 210-215 degrees. This time, I went further and both fans came on at 225* and the temp started going down and the fans shut off at about 205-210. This repeated four or five times, in all taking about 30 minutes. The top radiator hose got hot at 200* which tells me the thermostat is OK and the heater temp inside the car slowly rose to about 105* at the outlet, which, I hope, means the water pump is OK.

I am now ready for a test drive to see what happens. Incidently, the ambient temperature in central Indiana is about 92*.

Thanks for any & all suggestions. I hope it will stay as is so I can start on the "next" problem, whatever it may be.
Joe

 

From my experience the fans come on at 232 and shut off at 217. The aluminum block engines typically have a higher regulated operating temperature. Keep in mind this is DRB III monitored, your particular scan tool/software may be different but it looks as though you are in the right range. The fan control circuit IN the PCM typically will quit working period and not be an intermittent issue. Check your applicable fuses and relay terminals for any hint of corrosion or oxidation or any signs of excess heat just in case the fan motors are pulling too many amps.