I have a 2004 chrysler sebring convertible. I warm it up for 15 minutes letting it idle in the driveway. The car does not warm up just letting it idle, meaning the heater blows cold. It will only blow warm, hot air after you drive it or rev the motor to 2k rpm, for say 10 seconds, after letting it idle for 5-15 minutes this will cause the heater to start blowing hot air, and then it will continue to do so even if you let the car return to an idle. After some investigation and looking online for answers,
1. I have found that the engine is poorly designed as far as the waterpump goes(when it fails, coolant in oil, etc), Is my water pump weak?,
2. I looked at the heater lines and they do seem to have some length to them, Is the water pump just not able to push coolant through the lines to the heater core at idle, instead its easier for the waterpump to push water through the engine at idle, then when it revs up the pump finally pushes enough volumeso it goes through the heater core too?
3. Would I be correct in assuming that the t-stat is fine because it does warm up and in does not overheat, and that the heater/engine coolant circuit is on one side of the t/stat?
4. I have bled out all the air.


thanks I am alright mechanically, just my first chrysler

 

Sorry i forgot to metion that it has the 2.7 in it.

 

Number one, letting the car idle for 15 minutes in the driveway is a poor way to warm it up. You are wasting a lot of gas and not doing the car any good either. The engine will warm up in far less time by actually driving it, because putting a load on the engine results in a much quicker warm-up. Extensive idling can result in filling the oil pan and exhaust system with condensation which is not good.
Your lack of heat except at higher RPM is most likely caused by low coolant. If the car warms up properly and does not overheat the T-stat is doing its job.
If your coolant is low, there's a reason and you should track that down. On that engine, the coolant outlet manifold on top of the engine is a known problem. Search the forum here for that and you'll find lots of discussion of the topic.

 

Does one just add coolant to the plastic tank and leave it at that? or does one have to pinch the rubber tube at the bottom of the tank with the engine running?

Also what is the best wasy to bleed this car and ADD coolant. I know there is a bleed valve, but not sure if it is really bleeding the air.
Thanks
Gus

 

Add coolant so the level, warm or cool, shows properly on the reservoir. Don't open the reservoir when the engine is hot. Just pour in the new coolant, engine not running. Make absolutely sure you use the same color coolant that is already in there. Don't mix green with orange, etc. The system can bleed itself of air, if necessary, over several warm-up and cool-down cycles. You may need to add additional coolant then.
Don't fool with the bleed screw. If you look at it, you will see that the metal seat for the bleed screw is embedded in plastic, with small flutes to prevent it from turning when you turn the screw. The problem arises when you attempt to turn the screw and the friction between the screw and the seat causes the whole seat to turn in the plastic. The flutes are insufficient to retain the seat and then a leak develops.

 

Hi, I want to drain and refill the coolant, but can see no way to remove the lower hose pipe or see the tap/**** on the radiator to drain. What is the best way to drain the entire system on this car and refill procedure?
I have done this on many other cars but this one looks wierd.
Good point you raise about bleed valve, but how will I bleed total new refill? Thanks in advance.

 

The radiator drain is located at the lower right corner of the radiator. It looks like a square thing sticking out of a round hole, if that makes any sense. Be VERY careful with it, it's plastic and you can screw it up easily. You might be better off pulling the lower radiator hose if you can. The shop manual also recommends removing a heater hose from the heater supply tube near the right front inner frame rail, accessible from under the car. If you can get it drained, add new coolant in the top. Rather than turning the bleed screw, you could remove that small hose from the manifold that holds the bleed screw. The system will work the air out by itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles, then add some more coolant if necessary.