2007 Chrysler Sebring Limited, 3.5L

So my gauge lights do not work. I've done research on how to fix it and from what I've read, I can either replace the entire cluster (which I don't want to do, as I'll lose my mileage), or replace the stock "inverter" with an aftermarket one.

In that case, which inverter do I need? Like one that converts DC to AC? Like, which exact one do I need, and if someone could provide pics of the stock piece that I need to replace that would be great.

 

Anybody?

 

First off is the MPH, RPM, ect....indicators working and just the back lighting bulbs that are not working?

Secondly...2 ***** on my climate control box back lighting just went out yesterday, so I figured that I just needed new bulbs, found out that something inside the climate box was messed up and not powering the bulbs, I talked to dealership and they said I would need a brand new climate control box, or find a used one. didnt feel like paying up 100$+ for a new one.

So what I did was I removed the three bulbs from the control box, the three bulbs where attached to a long plastic base, I broke the bulbs from the plastic base and then replaced the glass bulbs with L.E.D's.

The LEDs fit perfect in the plastic base and I soldered some resistors and wired them together, I took the factory dash harness and figured out the ground wire (BLK/YLW) and the power wire (RED), the power wire only powered up when the headlights were turned on. So, I simply just wired the LED's straight to the dash harness and it works great.

that being said you may be able to do what I did with the gauge cluster

 

I found out what it was. It was the stock inverter that converts DC to AC to provide the "glow" effect in the indiglo gauges.

Purchase a EL Glow inverter from eBay, this one is the one I bought. It works fine.

1. Remove cluster
2. Remove back and front panel to cluster (they will both come off when you take all screws out of the back).
3. Locate the ribbon cable for the indiglo film. It will be in a black clip on the lower right side, when you're looking directly at the back of the cluster.
4. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the clip. Desolder the clip, you will need it.
5. Cut the connector off of your new inverter, and separate the two wires. There should be one wire that has grey lines on it to indicate polarity. Make note of which wire it is.
6. Solder the wires to one of the leads on the indiglo ribbon cable clip. If you're looking at the cluster with the back to you, and the top facing away from you, the lead on the right is negative and the left is positive. But if you get confused, you can switch it later, so it doesn't really matter. Just leave enough cable to cut, just in case.
7. Insert the ribbon cable back into the clip. Make sure the two wires are not making any contact with each other. Use electrical tape if need be.
8. Separate the wires that connect the analog clock. (You should have disconnected it if you got to the cluster). Using a multi-tool/automatic wire stripper, strip away some of the insulation and expose some wire on the BLACK AND ORANGE wires. The orange wire is the "illumination" wire and will provide power to the inverter only when the lights are on, and will allow the use of the dimmer switch.
9. Solder the red wire to the orange wire, and black to black. Isolate the wires (use electric tape).
10. Test. The gauges should glow regardless of if the key is in the ignition or the cluster is hooked up, as the indiglo is on a separate circuit now.

If it doesn't work, try hooking the cluster back up and try again. If it still doesn't work, reverse the polarity of the negative and positive wires going TO THE CLUSTER, not at the source (analog clock). This is where the note of polarity takes place. Just cut, strip, and twist the wires together for now, just to test. If after switching it works, solder the wires as they are and isolate them from each other. Reassemble the cluster and other dash parts.

NOTE: if you moved any of your needles by accident when the front face was off, don't worry. You can just move them back to the "Zero" position of the respective gauge. If after plugging it in, your gauges are still wrong (My gas needle was showing "empty" when there was a half tank), or they move to the wrong position, simply take the needle off (it just pops off with a little prying, but be careful) and set it back on at the "zero" position. You will have to have it plugged in when you do this, so just take off the front cover with the back one still on; there should be like four screws that pertain just to the front cover.

Reassemble and revel in your good as new lights!

I think I might make this it's own post, though, so that others can find this. I understand this is a common issue.