DIY Spark Plug Replacement on 2.7L V6 Engine
#1
12-10-2010 | 11:31 AM
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Posts: 37
DIY Spark Plug Replacement on 2.7L V6 Engine
My '01 Sebring sedan is nearing 100K miles. Don't know if spark plugs were ever replaced. It's probably time for a change. I recently had air filter, PCV valve and coolant changed.
I bought a set of plugs recommended by Chrysler for my engine -- platinum Champion 3032 RE10PMC5. So I'm part way there.
But I've never replaced spark plugs before. I'll have a friend of mine help me. He's better than me with cars but not too familiar with Chryslers.
I wanted to ask what you'd recommend by way of
1) tools
2) supplies and where to apply them
3) instructions of removal of old and installation of new plugs
I read online that front are easy but rear are hard -- can see why by looking at it. Some suggest to remove and others to leave the intake manifold alone. I'm just trying to put it all together and in the right order to get the job done right the first time.
Thanks in advance!
I bought a set of plugs recommended by Chrysler for my engine -- platinum Champion 3032 RE10PMC5. So I'm part way there.
But I've never replaced spark plugs before. I'll have a friend of mine help me. He's better than me with cars but not too familiar with Chryslers. I wanted to ask what you'd recommend by way of1) tools
2) supplies and where to apply them
3) instructions of removal of old and installation of new plugs
I read online that front are easy but rear are hard -- can see why by looking at it. Some suggest to remove and others to leave the intake manifold alone. I'm just trying to put it all together and in the right order to get the job done right the first time.
Thanks in advance!
#2
12-10-2010 | 03:21 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,649
From: Detroit suburb
You don't need to remove the intake manifold. You'll need a spark plug socket and a 3/8 in ratchet wrench with two short extensions and a u-joint. You'll need a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and the proper socket to remove the coil on top of the plugs.
Do the fronts first to get comfortable with removal of the coils and plugs. Do one cylinder at a time.
To remove the rear plugs, assemble the plug socket with the u-joint between the two short extensions. You'll then be able to roll the socket down into the plug tube. There's just enough room above the engine to swing the wrench.
If you have bought platinum plugs, don't gap them. They have a coating on them that can be damaged by the gapping guage/tool. DO apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the plugs so they'll come out next time. Carefully start the new plugs into the threads by hand using a rubber tube or hose slipped over the end of the plug so as to be sure not to cross thread the plug and potentially damage the cylinder head.
Do the fronts first to get comfortable with removal of the coils and plugs. Do one cylinder at a time.
To remove the rear plugs, assemble the plug socket with the u-joint between the two short extensions. You'll then be able to roll the socket down into the plug tube. There's just enough room above the engine to swing the wrench.
If you have bought platinum plugs, don't gap them. They have a coating on them that can be damaged by the gapping guage/tool. DO apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the plugs so they'll come out next time. Carefully start the new plugs into the threads by hand using a rubber tube or hose slipped over the end of the plug so as to be sure not to cross thread the plug and potentially damage the cylinder head.
#3
12-16-2010 | 07:32 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 37
Looking forward to doing this over the weekend. Thanks for the help.
Will I need dielectric grease? I'm planning on getting anti-seize for sure.
Will I need dielectric grease? I'm planning on getting anti-seize for sure.
You don't need to remove the intake manifold. You'll need a spark plug socket and a 3/8 in ratchet wrench with two short extensions and a u-joint. You'll need a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and the proper socket to remove the coil on top of the plugs.
Do the fronts first to get comfortable with removal of the coils and plugs. Do one cylinder at a time.
To remove the rear plugs, assemble the plug socket with the u-joint between the two short extensions. You'll then be able to roll the socket down into the plug tube. There's just enough room above the engine to swing the wrench.
If you have bought platinum plugs, don't gap them. They have a coating on them that can be damaged by the gapping guage/tool. DO apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the plugs so they'll come out next time. Carefully start the new plugs into the threads by hand using a rubber tube or hose slipped over the end of the plug so as to be sure not to cross thread the plug and potentially damage the cylinder head.
Do the fronts first to get comfortable with removal of the coils and plugs. Do one cylinder at a time.
To remove the rear plugs, assemble the plug socket with the u-joint between the two short extensions. You'll then be able to roll the socket down into the plug tube. There's just enough room above the engine to swing the wrench.
If you have bought platinum plugs, don't gap them. They have a coating on them that can be damaged by the gapping guage/tool. DO apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the plugs so they'll come out next time. Carefully start the new plugs into the threads by hand using a rubber tube or hose slipped over the end of the plug so as to be sure not to cross thread the plug and potentially damage the cylinder head.
#4
12-17-2010 | 09:05 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 37
The label under the hood says the gap is to be 1.27 mm. According to Champion's web site, RE10PMC5 plug has 1.1 mm gap. (That's the plug suggested by Chrysler for my engine.) Is there going to be a problem?
#5
12-17-2010 | 09:40 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,649
From: Detroit suburb
When I did mine I didn't bother with dielectric grease. The boots still had some grease on them and it seemed to be enough. Likewise I went with the gap that the plugs came with and the car ran fine. The computer actually can compensate for variances in the gap. That's why you can go 100,000 miles on a set of plugs nowadays.
#6
12-18-2010 | 10:02 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 37
Got it! Thanks, dcotter0579. Resetting ECU is not required, right? I assume it will "adjust" to new plugs by itself.
When I did mine I didn't bother with dielectric grease. The boots still had some grease on them and it seemed to be enough. Likewise I went with the gap that the plugs came with and the car ran fine. The computer actually can compensate for variances in the gap. That's why you can go 100,000 miles on a set of plugs nowadays.
#8
12-20-2010 | 12:46 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 37
Success!
All done now! Big thanks to my buddy with skills and tools and to dcotter for simple yet helpful directions and tips.
So far after about 40 miles of driving I sense no change in performance, fuel economy, noise, etc. I was hoping for a boost beyond 19-20 MPG in the city but that's pretty average for this motor and it's middle of winter in the Great Lakes anyway. So maybe no news is good news because I haven't really had issues before the "surgery".
About the job. Front plugs were pretty easy. Some coil screws wouldn't come out so we had to pull them out but boots and spark plugs were easy to work with. The old plugs looked, well, used but nothing out of the ordinary from my understanding. Gap still seemed OK, a little greater than the new ones. I wouldn't say they were shot. One plug did have a little bit of oil on the threads which might mean that a seal or valve cover is starting to leak.
The rear three plugs were a pain... in the rear. Got cuts and scrapes on my hands from those! 
But we got them done without removing the intake manifold or anything else. We also didn't have a u-joint (to our disadvantage). Used several extensions and a magnet which was helpful. Applied dielectric and anti-seize on plugs where necessary.
The whole process from opening the hood to starting the car back up again took about 3 hours. Pretty long but feels good to have done it. Next target will probably be transmission filter as it's likely still original. More on that later in a separate thread.
So far after about 40 miles of driving I sense no change in performance, fuel economy, noise, etc. I was hoping for a boost beyond 19-20 MPG in the city but that's pretty average for this motor and it's middle of winter in the Great Lakes anyway. So maybe no news is good news because I haven't really had issues before the "surgery".
About the job. Front plugs were pretty easy. Some coil screws wouldn't come out so we had to pull them out but boots and spark plugs were easy to work with. The old plugs looked, well, used but nothing out of the ordinary from my understanding. Gap still seemed OK, a little greater than the new ones. I wouldn't say they were shot. One plug did have a little bit of oil on the threads which might mean that a seal or valve cover is starting to leak.
The rear three plugs were a pain... in the rear.
Got cuts and scrapes on my hands from those! But we got them done without removing the intake manifold or anything else. We also didn't have a u-joint (to our disadvantage). Used several extensions and a magnet which was helpful. Applied dielectric and anti-seize on plugs where necessary.The whole process from opening the hood to starting the car back up again took about 3 hours. Pretty long but feels good to have done it. Next target will probably be transmission filter as it's likely still original. More on that later in a separate thread.
#9
09-17-2011 | 02:32 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4
Coil boots
I just tore a spark plug boot on my daughter's 06 Sebring Touring 2.7L because of the lack of clearance on the rear plugs. It happened just due to the length of the coil to boot extension. I did the front plugs pretty easily...
Any one know of a way to drop the engine, perhaps? I have tried to remove the firewall cladding, which also limits access height, held in by two round push tabs, but that was not removable, or at least not easily. I have seen vehicles that required the engine to be lowered to access all the plugs(Ford Aerostar '95 and virtually all Corvettes) but this has me stymied. Any help would be appreciated. It is expensive to replace all the coils/boots!
Any one know of a way to drop the engine, perhaps? I have tried to remove the firewall cladding, which also limits access height, held in by two round push tabs, but that was not removable, or at least not easily. I have seen vehicles that required the engine to be lowered to access all the plugs(Ford Aerostar '95 and virtually all Corvettes) but this has me stymied. Any help would be appreciated. It is expensive to replace all the coils/boots!
