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Electrical issues - 2001 Sebring LXi

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  #1  
Old 05-06-2013 | 09:55 PM
slyugo's Avatar
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Default Electrical issues - 2001 Sebring LXi

So I messed up. Everything was going great with the car, save for the AC, which wouldn't engage. I hoped it was lacking refrigerant, so I bought a can but couldn't add it without the compressor running. Thinking it should be as easy as my last early 90s Volvo, I hooked a lead up to the positive terminal and started sticking the other end in places it shouldn't be, trying to jump the compressor. Big mistake.

The car was running at the time. I touched the lead to a port on a harness that I believed (with no real evidence to back up that belief) and the engine died. The car threw a check engine light and the alternator light and runs terribly. When it starts, it revs up to about 1500 rpms and stays there for about 20 seconds, then when it starts to come down, it will either only go down to about 1100 and stay, or it will drop to 600, sputter and die. When its running, if I touch the gas pedal it dies. It will shift and move at idle, but again, touch the pedal and she dies. I idled it all the way to O Reilly to have them clear the check engine light. It originally threw 18 codes. It had none before. He cleared the light but it came back on immediately after starting it. Read them again and it was only 8 thankfully. I've been tinkering with it since, to no avail, but here are the codes I'm currently getting.

1684
0443 EVAP VMV circuit fault
0123 TPS circuit high input
0118 ECT sensor circuit high input
0108 MAP sensor voltage too high
0132 Upstream O2 sensor shorted to voltage
0152 Upstream O2 sensor circuit fault (Bank 2)
1492 Battery temperature sensor voltage too high
0406 EGR valve position sensor voltage signal high
1193 Intake air temperature voltage high

So I'm at a loss for where to start. The gentleman at O'Reilly thought kind of what I thought, that with that many codes at once, I may have fried the PCM. But I don't wanna but that kind of money out unless I'm sure. Is it possible that I fried all of these sensors and they just need to be replaced? Or should I go PCM shopping? or could it he something else entirely? Or where should I start with diagnosis to figure it out?

Thank you in advance for your help everyone.
 
  #2  
Old 05-06-2013 | 11:16 PM
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From: Fraser Valley
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Ouch. Expensive lesson.

My personal guess is that it is the PCM since whatever lead you pushed the juice down would have to go to the PCM to get to everything else. Hard to believe that it would have survived & not the other parts.
 
  #3  
Old 05-07-2013 | 10:23 AM
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From: Detroit suburb
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Much of the engine computer expects to see voltages of about 5 volts or less. Who knows what you touched with full battery voltage but judging by the symptoms, you may very well have fried something in there.
There are services online that will sell you a rebuilt computer on an exchange basis for something in the vicinity of $200. You may want to find one of those and relate your sad story there.
 
  #4  
Old 05-07-2013 | 11:06 PM
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From: Norcross GA
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where exactly did u add 12vs to what wire were?
 
  #5  
Old 06-26-2013 | 09:30 PM
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Thanks for your help everyone. I replaced the PCM and it solved the issues immediately. $200 bucks and five minutes to swap out the PCM, and the mechanic in town wanted $900 and two days. Thanks again!
 
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