Hi! I have a noise in my 2002 Sebring 2.7 L w/ automatic trans convertible that i am about 95 or 98 percent convinced is a cracked flexplate. I have done a pretty extensive search online about replacing the flexplate, and everyone (?) talks about removing the transmission to do it.
It seems that if the tranny can be separated from the engine 2" - 3" (and yes, I am guessing at that distance) so that the flexplate bolts can be accessed, unscrewed, and removed (after first removing the torque converter to flexplate bolts via the access cover, the flexplate could be replaced without actually removing the tranny. I know this is common procedure in vehicles with longitudinal engines / rear wheel drive...but haven't read about anyone doing it on transverse engine / front wheel drive...and specifically, the Sebring and related models.
Has anyone done this - that is, replace the flexplate without pulling the transmission, but rather, just sliding it away from the engine a few inches? Or does anyone have any thoughts/ suggestions on this? I am thinking that one might not even have to pull the CV/drive shafts.
Thanks, David

 

It's pretty tight in there, I doubt very much that you can get six inches of separation between the engine and transmission. Before you do anything serious, pull off the shield at the bottom of the transmission on the engine side. You will have a fairly good opportunity to inspect the flexplate to confirm your diagnosis. That's a big job and you don't want to undertake it unless it's necessary. Come back and give a report when you have completed your repairs.

 

Thanks for your thoughts, (as always) dcotter. I just edited my post, FYI, and deleted about the stator / turbine shafts. Not sure what I was thinking (or actually, wasn't thinking!).... or maybe because I was having another drink for you when I posted it...LOL... Sorry about that.
Anywaaaay, I would only need enough space to access to the flexplate bolts. ... two or three inches (??) to get a breaker bar/torque wrench and socket in there. I have a Husky 3/8 torque wrench slightly different from the current model - FYI one of the most useful tools I have - that doesn't take up much more room (head thickness) than a conventional ratchet, plus could use a pass-through socket and handle (I have one) with an extension - "Special tool JR573034 wrench handle leverage increasing extension adapter" haha also called a pipe - which would take slightly less space, pretty sure.
I HAVE removed the inspection cover, but have not yet unbolted the torque converter from the flexplate to try to move the plate toward and away from the crank and watch for movement and listen for sounds, and also try to rotate back and forth. AND start it to see if the noise symptoms are different with the TC disconnected. I doubt I will be able to push the TC toward / into the tranny enough to get an inspection mirror (to say nothing of a wrench) up to the bolt circle area without separating the tranny from the engine, but I guess I'll be finding out, as the plan is to do that today. (I live in an HOA controlled community, and in trying to not PO my neighbors, I typically don't have the car on jackstands more than a couple of hours a day, as I have NO room in my garage and have to work in the driveway.)
Will post my findings after I do those checks.
And yes, pulling the tranny is a BIG job.. because of my HOA situation, I may have to pay someone to do it. I have seen a post saying they paid $500 labor to have the flexplate replaced (which makes me think tranny removal), but another that said they paid $200 labor for a flexplate removal (which makes me think they were able to replace the flexplate without completely removing the tranny. Hmmmm.
Oh...and yes, I know I need a flexplate for "earlier" SBEC III controller (as opposed to NGC (?) controller/computer.
Thanks, again.
David