Loosen the tensioner on a 99 Sebring Convertible Serpentine Belt
#1
Loosen the tensioner on a 99 Sebring Convertible Serpentine Belt
Hi,
I want to replace the alternator on my '99 Sebring Convertible. It's a VIN H Engine, so it shouldn't be too hard.
Unfortunately I simply don't get how to loosen the belt tensioner in order to remove the belt. In an how to I've got, it says "Adjuster screw is to the side of the idler pulley locknut" - but where? Any ideas?
Thanks a lot!
I want to replace the alternator on my '99 Sebring Convertible. It's a VIN H Engine, so it shouldn't be too hard.
Unfortunately I simply don't get how to loosen the belt tensioner in order to remove the belt. In an how to I've got, it says "Adjuster screw is to the side of the idler pulley locknut" - but where? Any ideas?
Thanks a lot!
#2
Loosen the big bolt in the middle of the pully then look about the 5 o'clock position and towards the front of the engine you will find I think a 10 mm bolt. lossen it with a 6 inch extension from in front of the ac compresor by the radiator. this will push the pully towards the back of the engine giving you some slack. if you are from the upper rust belt you may need to tap the pulley forward some, give it a shoy of WD or PB blaster to loosen it up
#4
Loosening Tensioner on 99/00 Sebring Vert'
A few adders to the excellent notes, above..:
1. At least on my 2000, the adjuster bolt was a 13mm, versus a 10mm
2) For ease of first access (and WD40 soaking) consider removing idler bolt/wheel; this lets you get to casing behind, to squirt the inner threads - you've probably cut the old belt off already, at this point
3) While you can use an open end wrench from below (slow), the best approach is that above; snake in a socket/extension from the car front...your ratchet wrench will be in the cavity between the engine and fan*
4) To tighten the p/s-pump at re-assembly, I immediately gave up on getting to the breaker-bar from the topside: Work from underneath on that one and keeping tension on the breaker "socket" on the casing from below
Good luck and consider long-sleeves or long gloves on the tensioning wrenching; it puts your forearm in constant contact with rough bits - so it can look like you stopped a cat fight when you're done.
1. At least on my 2000, the adjuster bolt was a 13mm, versus a 10mm
2) For ease of first access (and WD40 soaking) consider removing idler bolt/wheel; this lets you get to casing behind, to squirt the inner threads - you've probably cut the old belt off already, at this point
3) While you can use an open end wrench from below (slow), the best approach is that above; snake in a socket/extension from the car front...your ratchet wrench will be in the cavity between the engine and fan*
4) To tighten the p/s-pump at re-assembly, I immediately gave up on getting to the breaker-bar from the topside: Work from underneath on that one and keeping tension on the breaker "socket" on the casing from below
Good luck and consider long-sleeves or long gloves on the tensioning wrenching; it puts your forearm in constant contact with rough bits - so it can look like you stopped a cat fight when you're done.
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2000, 99, alternator, belt, bolt, change, chrysler, convertable, convertible, find, sebring, sebryng, serpanttine, serpentine, tensioner