I have created an online petition for all of us that have the Chrysler vehicles that shutdown without any notice to the driver and when you are traveling at 65 to 70 mph up hills etc this creates a very DANGEROUS situation for the driver and other vehicles that could cause death to you and others.
If you replaced every part someone here said to try (in my case) you would spend 5 to 10 times what the car is worth. In my case (1999 Chrysler Sebring LXI coupe) its was a joint effort between Chrysler and Mitsubishi to produce these vehicles.
Here is the petition link....

http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/Chrysler

 

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-...XI-Coupe-2.htm

Sebring with 2.5 engine,no spark,no codes(just 12 and 55).Replaced dist.,crank sensor,dist cap,rotor button.Checked all fuses and relays.Fuel pump runs for a couple seconds when switch turned on as it should.Fuel getting to injectors.Checked for spark straight out of coil tower and had none.Manual says relay on firewall controls ASD,bench tested all three relays found on firewall checked out ok.Checked wiring for short,and all electrical plugs,I've run out of ideas.
-----Answer-----
Hi Dean
I think we need to focus on the distributor. First make sure that at the single pin, that has a wire attached to it of the 2-pin plug, that you are getting 12V when the engine is being cranked. That is the power for the primary coil that should be supplied by the ASD.
Then if that is present let's check for continuity of the wires from the 6-pin plug to the pcm:
1 black/light blue to pin 43
2 orange or orange/white to 44
3 tan/yellow to 33
4 not used
5 black to ground
6 black/gray to either 11 or 4 (I can't be sure which)

Then I would probe the wires at the crank sensor with fine pins, and measure the voltages with the ignition 'on' while turning the crankshaft pulley bolt by hand with a socket and breaker bar on the pulley bolt:
8V on the orange/white wire
and between the gray/black and black/light blue that you get an oscillating voltage from 5 to 0V three times for each full turn of the crank.
I am using the wiring diagrams for the 2.5L for the '96 Cirrus and the '98 Sebring convt. I have a '95 Sebring Coupe manual but I suspect it is not applicable to your 97 because that was the first year of the vehicle. So if there are discrepencies let me know and I'll give you wiring assignments from that '95 manual.
Let me know if you find something interesting or the answer as to why no spark. I assume that all the new parts are ok but we may have to look into those.
Roland
Hi Roland
Well I've done the checks you suggested,there is no 12v on the pin in the 2-pin plug on the dist,also checked the other pin had nothing,the wire itself had a little over a volt when cranking.The continuity checks ok,6 does go to 11 not 4 the only different was the color codes on a couple of the wires,2 yellow not orange, 6 red with a green or gray stripe not black but thats probably the differences in the manuals as you said.Had to stop for work so didn't get to check crank sensor but had already found 8v in the 6-pin plug that I guess is from the crank sensor.Seems that it could be the ASD but my manuals only reference to it is the relay that checks ok.I don't know where it's at,looks like or if it's serviceable.
Thanks
Dean
-----Answer-----
Hi Dean,
The '95 coupe manual shows there to be 4 relays in a bank on the firewall in front of the driver. From center out toward fender they are fuel pump, ASD, electronic transaxle, and back-up lamp.
If you look in the ASD socket, the forward pin (8) should have 12V on it from fusible link 3 in the power distribution center under the hood, direct from the battery. When the relay is activated (pin 6 (outboard) which gets the same 12V as 8, and PCM grounds pin 4 (inboard) when it has received the crank and cam signals) the relay closes and sends 12V on pin 2 (rear pin of the socket) to the distributor single wire, to the injectors, to the oxygen sensors. So either the PCM is not getting the signals (but that would cause an 11 or a 54 code) or the PCM isn't doing its job or the grounding wire (ASD 4 to PCM 67) is open, or the relay has bad internal contacts. So your problem is to get 12V onto pin 2 of the relay socket. You could jump from 8 to 2 which is like closing the relay and see if the engine starts (but don't leave it that way), and then you would know that path is ok. Then find out why the relay isn't closing (PCM/signals issue)or isn't feeding voltage if it does close (corroded points internal).
So I think you are near the answer.
Roland
Hi Roland
Well having to work over,not much time for this car anyway about the relays.3 relays in a bank on the firewall.All are the same,an inboard pin to center of car,outboard to fender and 3 in the center from front to back.It seems to be working as follows,front constant 12v,outboard constant ground,inboard receives 12v when switch turned on,but for only about a second,then that changes continuity from center and back pin to front and back pin.I jumped 12v to back pin still had no voltage to dist.Next I will get some help and check crank sensor volts like you said before since crank and cam sensor start this whole process.Could it be the condenser,I know on older vehicles it would kill spark,was going to swap it out but checked and it was $185.

 

this is stupid as **** man u want to bring something like that to Chrysler a car that is 10 years old and is to the point of needing some major work done maybe if U let an experienced tech look at it u would not haft to be guessing and spending money that is not needed. U are wasting your time on this petition what do u think they are gonna do give u a new car?

 

My Sebring has been maintained religiously, like all models and brands of other cars, and have been working flawlessly, FLAWLESSLY.

Take your b******t somewhere else or speak to your mechanic.

 

Start here...

http://www.aboutautomobile.com/Compl...rysler/Sebring

1999 Chrysler Sebring Consumer Complaints
1 Complaint Number:10247397 Incident Date:October 31, 2008 Date Added to File:October 31, 2008
Description of the Complaint:
Car had been cutting out while driving for about a week and a half. Today while driving on a 4-lane very busy divided highway about 55 mph, car shut off and restarted. Then when brakes were applied to turn and cross two lanes of traffic through median turn-off, car died and would not restart. Car would crank but would not turn over. Luckily a friend came by and pushed car out of the middle of the highway to a safe area. I called the towing company and then tried to start the car. It had been approximately 5-10 minutes and car restarted. I got the car home and parked it. I will be having the car towed to the repair shop and I do not feel safe driving it. I have looked up information regarding this mechanical failure and have found that it is a common occurrence in 1996-1999 sebrings. Most owners have paid a lot of money to get the problem corrected. Some owners never could get the problem corrected. From the information that I have gathered, it appears the problem is the crankshaft sensor or the egc sensor. I believe this should be a safety recall item as the vehicle dies while driving. It is just by luck that the car restarted while driving and died and would not restart in the median. It could have been a lot worse. The car has a little over 107,000 miles and I expect things to go wrong with it mechanically, but something like this is not acceptable as a normal mechanical malfunction. I do not want to spend a lot of money on trying to figure out what the problem is, nor do I want to spend a lot of money repairing things that do not correct the problem. I have read that plugs,fuel pumps, sensors, etc. Have all been replaced until problem is corrected. I feel chrysler needs to figure out what the problem is and issue a safety



My car oil etc all changed at the correct intervals has 92,000 miles.
As you can see? over 150 complaints and that's just the ones that could find the site...
question: which one of you is the person on Ebay trying to sell the PCU's? this would be a great site to promote it huh...but then you could also change the fuel pump,the distributor,and on and on and on.

 

150 out of say 2 million cars of the same style and engine not to bad if I say so myself.

get a life instead of complaining about it sense this issue is way way over your head
pay some one to fix it like a dealer or some one like myself that knows Chrysler cars and get it done or cash for clunkers is out there get something different and stop wasting your time. oh and FYI replace the whole distributor not just the cap and wires that is the main thing u have been looking up. And then again its 99 10 years old nothing lasts forever fork out the cash replace the distributor and move on.

 

Lesson here for everybody: If your car stalls on a high speed road, DO NOT hit the brakes, DO NOT pull to the left to get off the road.
While you are coasting, move as quickly as possible to the right and get off to the right, not the left. You are stranded in the median. This applies to roads in USA, not in England.