If I pull the line off (under the throttle body) and turn the key to on I hear the pump run for a second and I can see the line move like there is pressure inside, but no fuel comes out. There seems to be some kind of check valve inside the line that when depressed fuel will spray out. Of coarse I dont hold it down long cause I dont want fuel spraying everywhere so I cant guage volume flow. I am assuming that check valve is supposed to be there, I cant find anything in the books about it. The low fuel lite was on in the video but there is 5 gallons in the tank for sure. FYI I changed the fuel pump. That was my first diagnosis. So this is what I know: 5 gallons in the fuel tank, new fuel pump, fuel pump relay is functional,(bypassing it does not help and will set a code 1282 I believe), ASD is functional (power to injectors,coils Alt fld, O2 sensors) when cranking and key on for 1 second. Since ASD is turned on while cranking and the RPM gauge flutters, I assume I have cam & CK signals. Am I correct? I Could buy a fuel pressure guage and verify I have 55 psi but really why wouldnt I, Its a new pump module, and could it be possible something is obstructing the line. does anyone know what Im talking about with the checkvalve in the fuel line. It boils down to no fuel. I will have to do a volume test to eliminate the mechanical aspect. I will do that in the morning but I would bet money there is good fuel pressue and volume. Sorry for the long story and trying to diagnose this with pure logic and no special equipment.

 

there is no long story needed I did not read past "but no fuel comes out"
that is where u need to start if that does not happen then anything else u have done is a mood point I could give a rats *** if the injectors are working or not.
Unless u have the 3 basics of a combustion engine it wont work Spark FUEL and air.
U either A have a BS pump, drop the tank and leaking teh line undone prime the pump up and see if fluid spurts out at the pump if it does then back pressure the fuel line there has to be something in there clogging it up some one could have put sugar in your tank.

 

Thank you ChryslerTech for reading part of my post. You did not answer a very specific question, is there a check valve in the fuel line that would prevent fuel from coming out if the line were disconected (at the fuel rail Y pipe) and the fuel pump is on?

I know about the 3 requirements for internal combustion. I was a ASE Master Tech and a Toyota Master Tech and Advanced Engine Preformance Specialist, and a Smog Test & Repair Tech for 15 years. Until 2004. When I changed the pump there were no clogs in the old pick up filter which is in the very bottom of the tank.

 

there is no inline filter or check valve

 

I was able to check the fuel pump flow, and I got about a cup in 10 sec. i was able to do this by removing the flexable fuel line between the injector rail y and the frame mounted fuel line and reversing it so the end with the check valve in it connects the frame mounted line leaving the end with out the check valve to be inserted into a container. Yes it does have a checkvalve in the line Chrysler Tech. So I guess either my injectors are all clogged or the computer is not pulsing the injectors. either way no fuel to the cylinders.

 

Throw that line in the trash, because there is no such thing as Check valves in a fuel line on Mopar vehicles....

 

I cant throw it in the trash, besides it is the same fuel line that has been on the car since it was new and the day it quit running. It is factory. I guess you wouldnt know its there unlesss you were looking for it. It is simular to the check valve in air hoses found in all repair shops, and seals the hose when the air tool is removed. Anyway this problem is most difficult to diagnose without some very expensive test equipment that can read the serial data of the PCM, SKIM and other modules.

 

Lemme see if I've got this right. You said you believed there was a check valve in the fuel line because when you REVERSED the line, you could get fuel to flow. It's a pretty odd check valve that would only allow fuel to flow AWAY from the engine. Try replacing that flexible fuel line. It probably has a tear in the inner lining of the hose that is flapping down and blocking fuel flow.

I once had a brake hose that did that. Acted just like a check valve. Would only allow brake fuid to flow towards the caliper, but not back. It resulted in a permanently-on brake at that one wheel. Replacing the hose cured the problem.

 

No that is not what I was trying to say. I wanted to check fuel pump flow(volume) so I removed the flexable fuel line but that leaves the fuel line on the frame pointing straite up at me with no way to capture the gas coming out to measure it. I dont have other 5/16 fuel hose lyeing around so I reinstalled the flex line to the supply line backwards because this left the other end pointing down and able to insert into a jar to capture the gas for measurement. I bought a scan tool from sears to read the data from the PCM and was surprised theres not much live data I could see. I did confirm there are RPM's when I crank, TPS is 11.7%, IAT & coolant both at 60 degres, values for LTFT and STFT and timing were zero. all 4 o2 sensors held at .470, really not much. I wonder if the factory DRBIII lets you see more. I'm not even sure data is live while cranking. I wonder if I was able to borrow a PCM and swap it, could that work to eliminate the PCM.

 

It's still not clear to me that you could get fuel to flow through that flexible line in the proper direction. If you could, then I don't see why it was necessary to remove and reverse the line. If it's a flexible line, you should be able to point either end in any direction to capture fuel. If you couldn't get fuel out of the line without reversing it, then there's something obstructing the flow. As I tried to point out, it can't be a "check valve" because nobody would design a "check valve" that would not permit fuel flow toward the engine.
Yes, the DRBIII scan tool can read much more than any tool from Sears, but it costs thousands of dollars. It's not practical for the DIYer. It would be far better to bring the car in to the dealer. The PCM needs to be programmed with the VIN and mileage of the car, so a simple swapout may not be of any help.