ODB codes 300-306 Sebring Lxi '97
#1
ODB codes 300-306 Sebring Lxi '97
I am receiving, and have been for nearly 2 years, random, but frequent, codes in this range. I've replaced plugs, wires, cap rotor, and valve cover gaskets (oil in sp tubes).
One thought I had was that the crankshaft position sensor may not be properly gapped. I have replaced it twice in the past, but perhaps it didn't go as planned on the last one. I can't tie a timeline directly to that repair, mostly because I'm old, can't remember, and don't keep records.
So, is that a possible cause? If so, what is the proper gap? (I prefer measurements like 1-matchbook thick, 2- matchbooks thick, etc., or some other homespun gauge for the re-installation of the unit.)
Another thought was the distributor. They're expensive to experiment with as a repair part, so I'm looking elsewhere first.
Anyone have help?
Edit: Found a gap measurement of .030 for these units. What disposable paper type items (boxes etc) may get sufficiently close to that thickness? Anybody know?
One thought I had was that the crankshaft position sensor may not be properly gapped. I have replaced it twice in the past, but perhaps it didn't go as planned on the last one. I can't tie a timeline directly to that repair, mostly because I'm old, can't remember, and don't keep records.
So, is that a possible cause? If so, what is the proper gap? (I prefer measurements like 1-matchbook thick, 2- matchbooks thick, etc., or some other homespun gauge for the re-installation of the unit.)
Another thought was the distributor. They're expensive to experiment with as a repair part, so I'm looking elsewhere first.
Anyone have help?
Edit: Found a gap measurement of .030 for these units. What disposable paper type items (boxes etc) may get sufficiently close to that thickness? Anybody know?
Last edited by irdaneel; 08-16-2013 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Found Gap Measurement
#3
I did replace that a few years ago, well before this problem started though, but then, it gave egr related codes. (I also found that some companies clock their replacement valve wrong, so when you install it, there is no air flow.) I will recheck the vacuum hose arrangement, (It had to be altered to install the valve due to the clocking issue) just in case.
Any tests to determine whether it is a culprit?
Any tests to determine whether it is a culprit?
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