Hi there,
I just bought a 99 Sebring convertible with a 6 cylinder 2.5l engine with 125k miles and (I am not kidding) about 5 min. after my purchase the oil pressure light came on. I immediately stopped the engine and checked the level but it was fine. Right next to where I broke down there was a mechanic so I had the oil changed (why not). The oil light still comes on when the car idles and then goes away when the rpms go up. Sound like low oil pressure, right? Problem is that is it not consistent. For instance, it often does not come on after highway driving when idling when the oil is hottest and when it would be most likely to come on. Other times it does come on and I have to rev it to about 1800 before the light goes out. It just doesn't make any sense. Does anyone know what could be the problem? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks. Karotto

 

Get a pressure guage on there.

 

Plz respond to this when you do something or figure it out. thanks

My advice is to check the connection on the oil pressure switch then if needed replace the oil pressure switch. I was going to get a mechanical gauge and testthe oil pressure,but didn't get to it and I figure if it not rattling on the top (valve area)or lower end it's getting enough oil.
I have two 2.5 engines in Chrysler cirrus cars. Bothhave two 2.5 enginesboth have oil light coming on every now & then. It could be the bearing are starting to wear, Since it's not knocking, I am hoping it's ONLY either aloose connection to oil pressure sw or bad oil pressure switche.

One 130k (very intermittent light only when hot in the summer )the other has 171k. ( the high mileage unit hasvery erratic oil light coming onsometimes itstays off like nowit's been off ( but it's winter and I have 10-40 weight oil in it HPWEVER that liklely contibutesto it crankingvery slow & hard starting when cold as a result. I was going to change the oilwith 10-30 (it calls for 5/30 oil)and wait until warmer weather to check the conncetion & or change the oil pressure sw if needed.

I should follow my own advice. Both of my cars I will need to have theA/C compressor moved out of the way enough to sneak out the oilpressure switch. (If yours is the same do not release Freon)

I also had somebody else respond and advise they have similar issue and their idle is to low and that's why the oil light is coming on. Mine is to erratic CUZ sometimes it comes on above 2,000 RPM and will stay on for a while.
If you possibly have to low of an idle speed ( i think it should be 750-800 ? when warm) . You might have a cold start issue if you live where it gets cold-20 below like it's been here lately. any way below isa fellow Forum response to me

My idle speed is around 500 rpm once it warms up. Chrysler told me due to the mileage on my car to run Castrol 20W-50 oil and I haven’t seen my oil light come back since. If you still have the original idle speed control valve installed I would replace it with a Chrysler part and clean the throttle body and the seat for the valve, the valve may look ok but that doesn’t mean it opening and closing at the proper temperatures, changing this valve made a big different in my idle speed - it runs like a new car - especially in the cold

 

Your goin have to put a gauge on it, and actually look at the pressure, don't trust the idiot light, idiot light will cost about the same as a small mechanical guage espicially with that many miles

 

Oil pressure sending units are not expensive. I recommend changing it out first and see if that is the issue.

My 97 has both a gauge and a light. I've noticed the gauge is extremely sluggish to respond to engine condition changes. So much so that it is scary at times. But I don't seem to have any lubrication issues.

Be sure that the port the sending unit fits into is clear when you replace it.

If it continues after the replacement you may have some mechanical reasons for it. Things like the pickup for the oil pump being damaged or loose. Those are gonna be a bit more difficult and expensive, so that's when you spend some $ on either a mechanic, or the gauges and tools to do it yourself.

 

Pour 1/2 a can of "seafoam" in the crank case and drive as you will. It sounds like your oil journals are starting to block, the warm oil passes through easier. The seafoam will turn all the sludge back to liquid so the filter can clean it. Put the other 1/2 can in the gas tank.