I have a 2000 Sebring JX convertible with the 2.5L engine. I'm trying to drain my anti-freeze, but can't locate a drain plug or petcock on the bottom of the radiator. My Haynes manual just directs to "Drain radiator".

Does anyone know where I might find the drain plug/petcock?

Thanks

 

if u cant find it just remove the lower rad hose from the rad.

 

Chrysler Tech's got the easy work around. If you want to locate it, it's at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger's side. Look for a plastic ear/tab pointed towards the back of the car inside a circle. If it's going to work, it should be an easy 90 degree turn. If you have to fight with it, use Chrysler Tech's suggestion on the hose at the lower driver's side.

 

Lowe hose is not that easy to get on this engine its higher than bottom of radiator too.

They do sell replacement cap so it must be removable somehow anyone have luck doing so, i know it wont be easy because or rubber gasket but any info would be helpful because i noticed on images it has wired shape perhaps when you turn it 45 degree clockwise you can remove it?

As alternative workaround would running engine hot and opening it clean it because there's pressure inside cooling system?

 

I replaced my radiator once and if I recall, I got to the hose from the top but that probably was after removing the upper radiator support. There are cooling system flush kits you can buy that go into a heater hose. They make it possible to flush and fill the system from the top. You cut a heater hose and insert a "T" fitting to which you can attach a garden hose. If you go that route, be very careful when you turn on the garden hose. Domestic water pressure can be several times higher than the cooling system was designed to withstand so you can blow the waterpump seals without realizing it. You DO NOT want to have to replace the water pump on a 2.7L V6 Sebring. Another thing: DO NOT touch that bleed screw you see on the top of the fitting that the heater hoses run to. It is poorly retained in the plastic fitting and will strip out and leak if you try to turn it with a wrench. When it comes time to bleed the system, either remove a heater hose there or let the system bleed itself, which it will do after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles and then you can top it off as needed.

 

I have that piece with bleeding screw replaced by previous owner judging from receipt i found, i did turn the screw and it was not super easy but come lose just fine (much easier than temperature sensor that i replaced also).

Only question is how to unclog or take out the bleeding screw on radiator.

 

Somebody once wrote up a how-to here, if I remember right, where he took a large plastic cap from either a bottle or a spray can and cut a slot in it that would fit over the handle of the drain fitting. That gave him enough leverage to grip and turn the handle. Otherwise, as I said above, you can take out the upper radiator support and approach it from above. If you can rotate the handle but nothing comes out, try poking a wire in there to break up what ever is clogging the drain.

The problem with the bleed screw on top of the engine is not that you can't turn it. The problem is that the metal bleed screw fits into a metal fitting. That metal fitting is embedded in plastic. The bleed screw, with time, gets stuck to the metal fitting. When you turn the screw, the fitting also turns, and spins in the plastic because the flutes are very small. There is a newer design out in the aftermarket that provides the ability to hold the fitting with a wrench to prevent it from turning while you work the screw itself. If you don't have that design, then just leave the bleed screw alone.

 

Hey yall....is there any way to access the petcock without removing the skid plate?? Wanting to flush my cooling system.....