On my 1990 convertible The rear window is detaching form the canvas at the lower right side of the window. I can see/feel a smooth rubbery strip where is 'was' bonded to the glass. I live in a hot area (95ºF) and would like to know what others have used successfully or what is best to re-glue the backing of the canvas back to the glass.

 

Though my 'search' for this topic got nothing, several threads down I found this discussion (may 2009):
https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...ead.php?t=8156
" I used Polyseamseal all-purpose adhesive & caulk in one. I bought this at Lowes. It (comes out white but) dries clear and still holding." They said it was $3.00 for a 6 ounce tube.

Just curious if others have used anything else for this bottom of window to canvas top repair?

 

I had the same problem, but the canvas had shrunk so bad, I bought a good piece of clear vinyl and attached it to the window with a GE Silicone2 Premium Silicon Glue/sun freeze proof. After it dried, I attached it to the Canvas. Worked great.

 

After about a year and a half my Polyseamseal is starting to lift off the glass in one corner. In searching around the internet I find that people seem to be having luck with Rhino Glue. It's considerably more expensive ($16 vs $3) but I'll try that next, I think.

 

Last night I used J-B Weld, which is a two part epoxy type glue. I expect it will do the job well as it should be over kill in it's strength for this application. I think it costs around $6. It is available at Home Depot, Lowes and most hardware stores. It is grey in color, so you want to be careful not to let much creep out from under the canvas for aesthetic purposes. I pressed a piece of blue painters tape along the glass at the edge of the canvas to ease removal of any that seeped out after I pressed the canvas to the glass.

1) To lessen the pressure on the area I'm glueing, I released both top latches at the windshield.
2) I started by applying a thin layer of J-B onto both the glass and the smooth surface under the canvas with a small putty knife.
3) I removed the (3) 3/4" blocks used to keep the canvas away from glass as I applied J-B to each surface, and let the canvas rest onto the glass.
4) From inside, I placed a box under bottom of rear window to slightly raise the glass for better contact with the canvas.
5) I then ran a piece of 1 1/2" blue tape along the canvas/glass edge to be sure to hold the canvas down to the glass while the J-B cured (15 hours full cure). I also used (4) 8" strips across seam to pull canvas towards glass 'just slightly', as I could see it was already 3/16" to 1/4" away from the factory glued location, just to be sure it would be snug. I figured it was fine to not need to pull back to OEM glued location due to 12 years of top shrinkage, would be OK.
6) Before full cure, but after say 6+ hours, you should remove tape and trim away any little grey glue that seeped out away from canvas onto glass using a razor. I let mine cure overnight, about 11 hours and I was able to trim away slight excess glue, especially if you have some thick glue to trim away. After full cure it may be harder to trim away.

I'll try to remember to post back here down the road on how it is holding up. But certainly, if I am not back, it is still holding strong, and I forgot about it. )

 

Wow, I just noticed I first found this discussion just over two years ago, and I JUST NOW got around to actually glueing my rear window!

Initially, the seam was only starting to come undone at one end and I was curious to see if others would come back with different glue stories of success. Well, glad I FINALY did the job!

 

I tried the Rhino Glue and after about 5 or 6 months it's still holding quite well. The Polyseamseal remained stuck to the glass but let go from the fabric.

Polyseamseal is now made by Loctite.

 

Do you recall if you applied the Polyseal (and Rhino Glue) to both surfaces, then pressed them together? It may not matter, but I applied glue to both surfaces with a putty knife to be sure the glue was worked into both surfaces. Sounds funny/may not matter on 'glass' ;o). But I also cleaned both surfaces with acetone prior to glueing as per the J-B Weld directions. The canvas surface did need some cleaning, as the cloth came away black at first.

Glad to hear you seal is holding.

 

I'm sure I didn't specifically apply the glue to both surfaces, but did take extra effort to clean the surfaces first. It's pretty basic that when you are attempting to glue anything, you have to get the dirt out of there. The glue will stick to the dirt but if the dirt isn't stuck to the surface, it will come off and the joint will fail. I remember using a razor blade to clean the glass, then I think I used alcohol to clean the glass and fabric. I'd be a little leery of acetone on the fabric as acetone can dissolve some plastics.

 

Did you get it fixed?