Yeah, and it's still holding. So far, so good.

 

It has only been 6 months, but since I ran across this post, I thought I would report on the 10/20/12 J-B Weld repair I did on the lower rear window glass to canvas (reported in detail above in post #5).

Seal still looks great and I think this repair will last for the long haul.

 

Rhino Glue is still holding too. We should check back again in another year.

 

It has been one year since I used JB Weld to adhere Canvas to rear window along bottom edge (see post #5 for details). I just wanted to report back that it is still holding. I expect no problems.

 

I have had several Sebring Convertibles and every one had the same problem in the heat of the deep south. The bottom of the convertible top always releases from the bottom of the glass, and then it begins shinking. I have never succeeded in successfully repairing this problem after the canvas has pulled away from the entire bottom of the glass and been allowed to shrink for a year or more. In the situation I am describing, the canvas cannot be pulled up enough by hand to touch the glass - at least in the center 1/3 of the window anyway. I presently have a 2000 limited edition JXI that looks showroom new and I need this repair to look professional. So here I am, going to try one more time to repair this thing. First, I purchased 3m Windo-Weld 08609 glass glue and the 3m primer 08682 that goes with it. This product is highly recommended throughout the internet for this job. My only question is - have these repairs been performed on tops with the amount of shrinkage my has. So far every method I have tried has released when I had to forcefully close the top and latch it. I am planning to soak the canvas with fabric softener before I close it this time. I am also wondering if I were to take the black plastic cover off in front of the trunk lid, would there be enough extra canvas under the attachment rail to slide it up a little and give it some slack before I put the screws back in? I absolutely am not going to jury rig the glass with a plastic apron as one of the posters here did. If this repair does not work I will consider using Gorilla Glue or JB Weld as final resorts before I attempt a radical method which would consist of using a glass drill to put holes 4" apart, purchasing a thin aluminum strip to match the canvas on both sides of the glass, and pop riveting the thing in place. If this works, I should be able to find some nice looking button covers at Hobby Lobby for the exposed rivets. If anyone has any good suggestions about my plans - specifically the shrunken canvas, I would appreciate your input.

 

My repair with Rhino glue is still holding after two more years, but the car is kept in a garage so that may be helping. There's a little room at the bottom of the glass to accommodate the shrinkage. You might try gluing it with the top clamped and stretched rather than releasing the clamps. That way you'll not be overstressing it when you clamp it closed.

 

Well the 3m glue is now drying. I'm going to let it dry for at least two days. But I don't have much faith in it working. The canvas has shrunken so much that it is about 3/4 of an inch from the glass most of the way across. Every time I've tried to repair it, the top stays open about 4 inches from the windshield and when I pull it down to latch it, it always rips the glue loose. I'm not sure Gorilla Glue or JB Weld would work since they would not turn loose and I'm not sure the canvas can be stretched that much without ripping it. Like I said, I'm going to thoroughly soak the top with fabric softener before I try to pull it down and latch it. However, If it tries to tear loose again I am going to stop before it does and consider an alternative to drilling and riveting. I have removed the plastic cover in front of the trunk lid and there is a good 6 inches of canvas under it before it attaches down inside the body of the car. I'm thinking of cutting the canvas to match the arc about 2" up under the sheet metal lip and then close the top and latch it. Then with a curved needle I will make enough large stitches to temporarily hold the cut seam in position. I will buy a small piece of tarp material and cut it 2" to 3# wide also to match the arc, and cover one side completely with silicon glue and smooth it into place and then cover the exposed side with silicon glue. After I replace the plastic cover you will never be able to see it again. I know this will work and I'm thinking it"s a lot safer than trying to drill safety glass. Anyway, Saturday or Sunday I'll know for sure.

 

For sure you can't drill the glass. It'll shatter. Once it's tempered it's basically impossible to work with. Take som pix as you go and come back and tell us how it went.

 

It has been two years since I used JB Weld to adhere Canvas to the rear widow along bottom edge (see post #5 for details). I just wanted to report back that it is still holding strong. I expect no problems.

Crimsonite, if you are around, others would probably like to hear of how your repair turned out if they had the severe shrinkage that you did. (I did not)

 

My Rhino Glue is still holding, too. I'm not sure my experience is a great test because the top stays down all summer with the car being driven out of the garage, and the top stays up all winter with the car being parked in the garage. So the top basically never bakes in the sun.