Replacing pads and rotors
#1
Replacing pads and rotors
My rotors feel a bit out of round and, since it has been about two years and 75,000 miles, I figure it's time to replace everything again. I have replaced the pads a few times and the rotors a couple times as well. What I have not done before it changing all the pads in the rear drum area (e-brake, I think). I have a manual, but for reasons I cannot recall I was hesitant to replace those when I did the rears. I will replace those this time. Is there anything special I need to know or tools that I should get to do the job?
I basically have only a hammer, screwdriver set, socket set, and pliers. If I need something even as basic as locking pliers or C-clamp to deal with the springs, please let me know so I can get that before I start.
Thanks
MRR
I basically have only a hammer, screwdriver set, socket set, and pliers. If I need something even as basic as locking pliers or C-clamp to deal with the springs, please let me know so I can get that before I start.
Thanks
MRR
#2
Rears are no more difficult than the fronts. You might need to adjust the parking brake shoes in a bit to get the rear rotors off, but usually it's the opposite problem, adjusting them out to keep effective parking brake action due to wear. You can probably adjust them with a flat bladed screwdriver, but it's a little easier with a brake adjusting tool. Before re-installing the rotor, adjust the parking brake shoes to 6.75 inches in dia. You may have to adjust them a notch or two out after installing the rotors. You don't have to disassemble the parking brake shoes unless they are badly worn, and that's not likely unless you make a habit of driving with the brake on.
A 6" C-clamp is useful for squeezing the piston back into the caliper.
You may need something to suck excess fluid out of the master cylinder when pushing the pistons back. Don't borrow your wife's turkey baster unless you plan on buying her a new one. Brake fluid is very poisonous.
You need an allen wrench for the front slide pins, I think it's an odd size, like 7 mm, that doesn't come in the normal set. If you did the fronts before you probably have it. Do one side at a time so you have the other side to look at as a reference if you can't remember how it goes back together.
Hey, when are you going to post up some pix of that car?
A 6" C-clamp is useful for squeezing the piston back into the caliper.
You may need something to suck excess fluid out of the master cylinder when pushing the pistons back. Don't borrow your wife's turkey baster unless you plan on buying her a new one. Brake fluid is very poisonous.
You need an allen wrench for the front slide pins, I think it's an odd size, like 7 mm, that doesn't come in the normal set. If you did the fronts before you probably have it. Do one side at a time so you have the other side to look at as a reference if you can't remember how it goes back together.
Hey, when are you going to post up some pix of that car?
#3
I have no problem with replacing the rear rotors (did that four years ago), but I think it might be time to change the parking brake pads. I don't have a habit of driving the the brake on, but two days ago I did and didn't even notice it for ten feet when the chime sounded. I don't think it gripped at all and it was fully engaged. I'll see if maybe I can adjust it instead.
Assuming it does only need adjustment, where do I do that? At the wheels? Under the car? Or under the arm rest?
I need to do a bit of sewing on the top (just tried, won't be sewing anything through four layers of canvas. Guess I'll get some epoxy), then I'll post a pic or two. Sadly, I do not have a picture of when I ripped all the carpet and dash out of it. It looked quite different with just bare metal a driver's seat and steering wheel.
MRR
Assuming it does only need adjustment, where do I do that? At the wheels? Under the car? Or under the arm rest?
I need to do a bit of sewing on the top (just tried, won't be sewing anything through four layers of canvas. Guess I'll get some epoxy), then I'll post a pic or two. Sadly, I do not have a picture of when I ripped all the carpet and dash out of it. It looked quite different with just bare metal a driver's seat and steering wheel.
MRR
Last edited by KYBarrister; 07-03-2009 at 10:23 PM.
#4
Sorry for the misinterpretation. "Pads" usually reders to disc brake pads. "Shoes" usually refers to drum brakes. Anyway, if you've ever done drum brakes, the parking brake system should be no surprise. If not, it's still not all that difficult. You'll need some groove joint pliers to squeeze (gently) the clips that hold the shoes in place, and some needle nose pliers to rotate the pins held by the clips, and to grab the springs to hook them to the shoes. That will all become clearer once you have it apart.
There's a star wheel adjuster between the bottoms of the shoes. Turning it one way spreads the shoes apart, the other way contracts them. You reach it by popping off an oval rubber plug in the backing plate and sticking a screwdriver or brake adjusting tool through the opening. By moving the tool up and down against the star wheel, you rotate it one notch at a time to make the adjustment. It's very easy to see how it works once the drum is off, but you may have to do it before you get the drum off.
Make the adjustment with the star wheel. That adjustment inside the car is a one-shot adjustment when you install or replace the cable.
The advice about doing one side first to use the other for reference still stands.
There's a star wheel adjuster between the bottoms of the shoes. Turning it one way spreads the shoes apart, the other way contracts them. You reach it by popping off an oval rubber plug in the backing plate and sticking a screwdriver or brake adjusting tool through the opening. By moving the tool up and down against the star wheel, you rotate it one notch at a time to make the adjustment. It's very easy to see how it works once the drum is off, but you may have to do it before you get the drum off.
Make the adjustment with the star wheel. That adjustment inside the car is a one-shot adjustment when you install or replace the cable.
The advice about doing one side first to use the other for reference still stands.
#5
No need to apologize to me for my improper use of words. I checked my manual to see how to replace the shoes. Maybe I just didn't want to deal with springs back then. Thanks for correcting me on how to make the adjustments too.
MRR
MRR
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
carid
Member Group And Special Buys
3
06-14-2016 08:54 AM
Jerry Lewis
Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country
4
09-08-2014 02:49 PM
bdmeyersc
Chrysler 200 & Sebring
2
08-31-2013 10:31 PM