Chrysler 200 & Sebring Whether it be the sedan, coupe, or convertible, this mid-sized model offers a touch of class to every style in it's lineup

Sebring hesitates, kills itself, and shakes badly

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  #1  
Old 05-18-2011 | 10:56 PM
Harley44howard's Avatar
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Exclamation Sebring hesitates, kills itself, and shakes badly

i have a 99 Chrysler sebring convertible 2.5l v6. it takes a bit to start up and when it does the idle is terrible, it shakes and sounds bad. you get in too go and give it gas, and it will just die and restart itself, if i feather the petal a little and mess with it i can get it to go and go highway speeds but occasionally i feel erratic jerking and if i put it to the floor to test it, it just sputters and back fires and so on. i have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires, i put champion plugs back in it, because i wanna stay factory, i also changed the IAC ( idle air control) sensor and the tps( throttle position sensor) on it, i have emptied the fuel tank and put all new fuel and some seafoam in it to clean it, too no avail it still cuts out with gas,has no power and doesn't go with gas unless i mess with the petal to get it to go then it still jerks while driving and its really hard to get it to go at a stop light and all..all the plugs have spark and when i pulled the new ones out they show as they are burning the fuel so its like the distributor is still good and is firing... please help, im all out of ideas and i have no clue on what to do..
 
  #2  
Old 05-20-2011 | 03:10 PM
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Get it hooked up to a good code reader that can capture freeze-frame data and see if the computer is reporting any system malfunctions. Not any code reader can retreive that stuff.
 
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Old 05-21-2011 | 01:43 AM
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well it wont let a scanner with a scope or a scanner with freeze frame even comunticate with the computer, it only let my do obdII and look at codes, i got multiple misfires as my code, and i checked my egr valve it was good and now replaced my crank sensor and its still giving me issues, i also got champion double platinum plugs and wires.
 
  #4  
Old 05-21-2011 | 06:56 PM
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Timing belt lose a tooth?
 
  #5  
Old 06-07-2011 | 02:57 PM
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i ended up getting it to run correctly and perfectly for about a month and recently my check engine light came on. i fixed the before problem with a new distributor and drove it, check engine came on, i wasnt worried too much because i had no time and work everyday along with school. today i got fed up with it because instead of only a engine light it started going to very low rpms and dieing when stoping in drive, i also tried to put it into neutral before stopping to see if it would help and it doesnt, it still dies. i got 2 codes, one was po123 which is the tps, i put a new tps on it before i put the distributor on it, i went to the store and got a new one.. didnt fix it. i got another code which is po172, it says a few things about bank one misfire, bad o2 sensor or injector issues, well if the tps wasnt working wouldnt that cause a misfire because the cpu doesnt know how much gas to give it? i need some help im personally tired of putting money into this car, especially when im broke anyways.
 
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Old 06-08-2011 | 10:19 AM
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Try googling P0172 (not Po172) and see what comes up. If you don't want to spend the money on this 12 year old car to get it fixed right, then start looking for alternate wheels.
 
  #7  
Old 06-14-2011 | 04:49 PM
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What was the fix for this problem? I have the same problem description with my 95 sebring 2.5. My gut was telling me weak fuel pump.
 
  #8  
Old 06-19-2011 | 10:41 PM
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If youre still having the misfire issues you might want to recheck your crank sensor for gap...
I installed a new one on my 97, and started getting misfire issues at road speed. It wasnt until I removed the sensor and used a SINGLE THICKNESS OF WRITING PAPER held on with some liquid white-out (tough to do as it dries FAST!) to regap it that it started behaving itself...

I must also say that the original sensor had SCORING on the end where it had obviously contacted the flywheel...

The only other time mine behaved as yours seems to was when the EGR valve broke... the 'sealing plate' had worn away to the point where EGR was 'always on'.
I know you said yours was good... but you might want to look again.

Just sayin'
BTW... that P0123 could be caused by the engine forcing the idle up to try to keep it running... thus the position is 'off' for the RPMs its getting. Cant remember, but I THINK mine did that too... caused by the EGR 'leaning out the mix' when it shouldnt be.

FWIW.
 

Last edited by leeb; 06-19-2011 at 11:05 PM.
  #9  
Old 11-10-2020 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by leeb
If youre still having the misfire issues you might want to recheck your crank sensor for gap...
I installed a new one on my 97, and started getting misfire issues at road speed. It wasnt until I removed the sensor and used a SINGLE THICKNESS OF WRITING PAPER held on with some liquid white-out (tough to do as it dries FAST!) to regap it that it started behaving itself...

I must also say that the original sensor had SCORING on the end where it had obviously contacted the flywheel...

The only other time mine behaved as yours seems to was when the EGR valve broke... the 'sealing plate' had worn away to the point where EGR was 'always on'.
I know you said yours was good... but you might want to look again.

Just sayin'
BTW... that P0123 could be caused by the engine forcing the idle up to try to keep it running... thus the position is 'off' for the RPMs its getting. Cant remember, but I THINK mine did that too... caused by the EGR 'leaning out the mix' when it shouldnt be.

FWIW.
where on the crank position sensor did you put the paper???
 
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