My mother has a 99 JXI vert that has recently been giving her issues. She has a tune-up done recently which included plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned tb and intake, plus other stuff she probably didn't mention to me because she couldn't seem to find the reciept. Either way, it sounded like your typical tune-up, not sure about O2s.

She said she noticed it when taking slow turns and when she came to slow down to a stop on her inclined driveway, which made me think fuel delivery issue. Checked fuel pressure with a little ingenuity (why didn't chrysler add a schrader valve?), consistent ~53 lbs. Couldn't find a fuel pressure regulator to pull vac line off of. No vacuum leaks that I've detected with brake cleaner around intake and lines etc. Threw a new MAP sensor in today just to see what it would do, no help.

I can force it to stall whenever I want to usually. It happens when you're accelerating slowly from 1st and it goes into 2nd at low speeds. If you hit the brake as soon as it hits second, it will either stall or hiccup for a second or two then come right back to life. Happens a lot at drive thrus, parking lots, driving in traffic, etc. Also, an indicator that something is wrong to me would be that occasionally it takes two tries to start, or will start and somewhat stutter to life. Priming fuel system before start doesn't help this issue. But most of the time the RPMs shoot right up at the turn of the key and it acts like all is fine.

Sometimes if you just barely touch the gas, it sounds like its wanting to miss a bit, but when you push it past the 1mm point it smooths out. Wondering what voltage I should be seeing at the throttle position sensor.

When it does stall, bump it into neutral and hit the key and it fires right back up.

Hoping this is not the torque converter sticking or something weird, but if it was, I would assume there would be no occasional hesitation at start up.

Doesn't seem voltage related, lights are consistent brightness.

Not thinking crank/cam sensor because it doesn't just shut off randomly, it's pretty replicable and doesn't seem like an 'on/off' type issue.

 

Might want to check the idle air control valve. It's supposed to prevent stalling when loads increase from the power steering or A/C when you don't have your foot into the gas pedal. (Parking lot maneuvering, drive thrus, bottom of the driveway, etc.)

 

When I had TB apart for cleaning, there wasn't much building on the IAC. I know its compensating because RPMs do fluctuate upward once it finally catches itself and you can hear it start hissing a little in the TB, but I'm wondering if it's not responding quickly enough or perhaps is no longer calibrated properly.

 

I sure would appreciate knowing your findings / solution. You described my situation exactly as I am experiencing it.

 

I have the same symptoms and I've tried a lot.
I don't think it is the IAC because I removed the connector and did the same.
Now I ordered the Throttle Position Sensor. Hopefully it will solve the issue.

 

This is the entire reason I'm working on my mom's '02 2.7L sebring. Stalling at stops. I also thought it was the IAC, and that's where my focus is for this repair session. But I've found several other issues with this car. Is it possible that there are several little things causing this? The IAC, the TPS, the MAP? In my case the IAC seemed fairly gunky, not horrible, but it was dirty. The TB was farily clean with only a little gunk around the butterfly valve and in the throat. There was a significant tear in the valve cover breather hose. The PCV seemed fairly gunky. I noticed the air temp sensor in the air duct was covered with carbon buildup. There is a leak at the Transmission cooling line connection at the radiator, there is a leak on the Coolant Outlet housing. So far that's what I've seen on this car. I felt it was the IAC in this case, but have not replaced and tested it yet.
Can the IAC be disassembled and cleaned or should it just be replaced? I would sure like to know your solution when you find it, and you can be sure I will post mine when everything is back together. JG

 

I have been putting more time and effort than I would like to admit regarding what seems to be the same phenomenon with my 99 vert (2.5l). After much deliberation with Chrysler diagnostics manuals, installation of several sensors / components, I believe the solution lies in:

1) A STRONG BATTERY - just because it starts and runs fairly well does not equate to a battery that provides what these electricly demanding rides need: AMPERAGE not voltage.

2) EGR VALVE/ TUBE: The symptoms match up nicely to the functionality of the EGR valve if it is not working properly.

I am installing a new EGR valve in the morning and will update afterwards.

Lastly, NAPA seems to be the ONLY credible parts dealer around that correctly identifies the gaskets etc for this car, at least in San Diego area. Might save yourself some aggrivation by checking with them when in need (no I don't work for them lol).

 

Didn't quite solve it but I am much closer. Today I am installing new fuel filter and a EVAP purge solenoid as I foud mine is way out of range for Ohm resistnce - in fact it only measured 1/2 of expected.

 

did you get this solved yet?

 

Sorry it has taken me so long to respond with my findings but I did solve my issue(s), I replaced the coil in the distributor ($122) and that seemed to do it (at least for a couple days) then it came back but this time the misfiring was VERY rhythmic and throwing hard codes. I got out my stethoscope and listened to my injectors. Sure as sh_t I had an injector that was completely non responsive. Fortunately it was cylinder #4 so it was easy to get at. I swapped it out with one I had from the dismantler and it has been running flawless since (2 weeks now). It also passed calif smog yesterday. Hope this helps.