As I've said many times, there is no guarantee here, the message is, TRY IT. It worked for me.
So far the OP's problem has NOT been solved.

The first line of the OP's complaint reads -- (copy and paste)

"My car would go into limp mode. It does not accelerate and feels likes its about to die but doesnt".

Notice the expression, "limp-mode". This is commonly held to be the same as "restricted performance".

Much is being read into my last posting that isn't in fact there. It has nothing to do with other postings regarding battery charging. So is "irrelevant".

Warning: "Chrysler-Tech" appears to be saying "U can remove the battery and the car will still run". (Last sentence). Under no circumstances should the battery EVER be disconnected while the engine is running. The alternator will immediately rise to a dangerous voltage and ruin any processor board connected to the 12volt line.

I'm astonished anyone could say such a thing on a website like this.
None of this posting by "Chrysler-Tech" seems to make much sense either.
I have no confidence in this man's opinions whatsoever.

I will make no further comments on this matter as it is obvious where it is going.

Leedsman.

 

U really want to argue with me about this? With a 17 years of Chrysler experience u really want to argue with me about how a system works on a car that I have had extensive training in?

Limp in mode is for transmission not engine performance look it up for yourself.

And no disconnecting a battery while a car is running will not make a voltage increase and damages your computer why because the computer is already controlling the ground to which makes the alternator that uses a pulse with modulated duty cycle aka ON AND OFF to regulate the voltage and its not a 12 volts system that the computer uses any way if that were the case they whey is the alternator putting out 13 to 14 volts?

Im not the one making sense I think your the one just rambleing on and on about nonsense All of the info u provided is pretty much useless to a car or any member on this site. IM sure u are a great computer engineer or microprocessors guy but have zero experience in dealing with matters of a car.

 

[QUOTE=CHRYSLER TECH;73023]first this is not a jag or a diesel or a UK spec car
The systems u are talking about are way different then ones you will find on any shelf in a store.

This guy is complaining about a rough idle not a battery issue nor a battery drain the battery theory u have described in such detail is irrelevant in this matter. Battery drop or frequency is then again irrelevant in a cars issue. Why because the alternator is charging up the battery and running the whole car. The voltage will change based off the currant needs of the car so they are ever changing and FYI u are comparing apples to oranges in the power supply. Home computer use AC currant with a steady 110 or 220 vol source it must be the same. Cars use alternator which makes ac and converter it to DC and it will change from 13 volts to 14.4 volts and 50 to 110 amps depending on the car. And Chrysler cars the slowest Clock speed was 14mhz if i remember right old technology the new cars use up to 600mhz data buses so your 2-6 mhz frequency deal is once again irrelevant. Also the engineers that design the cars kinda know how this system works they designed it know know about frequency and latent heat and all of the wonderfully items of and engineer. A battery used on a Chrysler serves two proposes one starting power to get the car running.
Second a charging post for power from the alternator and a buffer for any voltage spikes that's it U can remove the battery and the car will still run.[/QUOTE
I have a different question for you and it doesn't pertain this at all. I have a chyrsler 300 with 5000 miles on it. It seems that I have cold air coming out of all vents when the temp is set on high and sometimes the direct opposite will happen with heat coming out of the vents and the temp is set low. I am taking it to the dealer this Wed. for them to look at. This problemis occurring when in the manual mode. In the AUTO mode it seems to work ok. Thank you

 

Visit a dealer for warranty issues dont try and repair yourself it could void your warranty

 

Not quite sure what happened to this thread, but I think someone here has had their cheese slide off of their cracker...

 

It's what happens when a new member can't figure out how to start a new thread.

 

I have a 300 Touring 2006 with the same problem (limp mode) more intensive in summer than in winter
Appear generic problems with speed sensors
I have them changed and still failing
Well, I need to know what to do with the ECM since some techs
refer to it as the problem, sending me to the dealer
Additionally, I have no ground in the AC, so it doe snot work
Techs tell the problem is in the ECM also
Is there a way to have the ECM reset by someone different than the dealer?
Thank you in advance for your answer...

 

First what are the codes for the prob you are having?
Then what engine side and type of transmission do you have?

 

Have you had your car on a scope yet? Check the wave forms from the cam & crank sensors and relate them to ignition and injector wave forms. Your cam sensor could be the issue. The vehicle will start, (although it would start a tad slow) idle fine but run rough as the fuel timing would be off. You could compare the wave patterns to know ones on vehicles that run well.
Good luck.

 

Thank you very much for your responses. This is related to the same symptoms that were reported at the beginning of this post by dinhle504 on 08-27-2013, 01:05 PM

The issues are:
- Suddenly, the transmission goes into 'limp mode', not allowing me to accelerate more than 40MPH and keeping that speed or lower only.
- The transmission is not capable to fix itself. Solution posted in Internet. Shut off the car and start it on again. No problem.
- It fails all the time during summer. During winter almost never happens.
- When it is in 'limp mode' (automatically and in order to protect the transmission) there is no way to go to manual gears (moving the gear side-to-side does not change the status).
- Very common and after changing speed sensors could only head to the BCD/ECM malfunction. So, it is a problem with the computer? If so, it needs to be reloaded?
I believe that doing this on the dealer will cost more than the real value of the car...

The codes are:
P0700 OEM Brand: Chrysler
Transaxle control system fault
ECM received a signal that the transaxle control/module has a fault
Cause:
a. Shorter or open circuit within transaxle;
b. Failure of transaxle control module

P2767 OEM Brand; Chrysler
Input speed sensor 2 circuit no signal
The TCM has detected a correlation error between the two input speed sensor signals
Causes:
a. Open or short circuit condition;
b. Poor electrical connection;
c. Failed input speed sensor 2;
d. TCM fault

At this time, I really believe that the car at only 125000 miles (failing since 90000 miles) is not as good as it looks. For example, I have no ground for the A/C so nobody can fix it because it goes beyond the A/C shops knowledge. Apparently the ECM is also guilty and I have to take the car to the dealer and the extended warranty does not cover since it is not mechanical but electronic circuit related. Fortunately, this summer was not so hot here in MI.

Thank you