Since this thread has resurfaced, I will fill in my experiences since my last post in 2017 in regards to this problem.

I have found that this happens after fueling up when tank is at or below 1/4 tank and the ambient temps are high. Therefore, this happens more frequently in the summer. I personally do not really see it happening in the cooler months. Driving the vehicle "hard" with a low tank also increases the chances of this happening immediately after fueling up. Frequent stops or slow downs for turns after fueling under these conditions would cause engine to stall out. As others have mentioned, this typically does not trip a code to pinpoint the issue. Therefore if you do take it to the dealer, they have no idea where to look.

I did some research and found an interesting post on carcomplaints.com. https://www.carcomplaints.com/Chrysl...n_system.shtml. I think Post #11 nails the issue on the head. They mention the On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery valve (ORVR). Basically, when you refuel your vehicle, this valve is supposed to transfer all the vapors in the tank to the EVAP canister. Somehow this system is not function properly and therefore causes the EVAP system to fail and in turn causes the vehicle to stall out until these vapors are exhausted. During the heat of the day, the sun heats up the tank and causes the vapors in the tank. When you fuel up, these vapors are being pushed into the system and causing the stall. Bad news is that this valve is part of the entire fuel tank and I have not found a part number for replacing it alone. You have to replace the entire fuel tank which last I looked was over $800 (if you can find it).

I know FisshKid said that they serviced the throttle plate and that this should be done every 15-30k. After seeing this, I got some cleaner and pulled mine off and cleaned it thoroughly. Sad to report that the issue continued after so this did not fix it for me.

What I have personally done to help reduce this from happening (**not a sure fire solution, just my experience**):
a) Try to fuel when temps are lower to prevent fuel vapor. Fuel up in the mornings before the sun heats up the tank and causes the vapors.
b) When fueling, when the fuel nozzle clicks and stops pumping, DO NOT try and add more fuel.
c) Do not let the fuel level drop much below 1/2 before fueling up again.
d) If I do have to fuel in the afternoon with high temps, I try to fuel at locations that I will immediately get on a highway after so I can keep the RPM's up until it purges the vapors. Avoid frequent stops/idles.
e) I have also started adding a can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to each fill up. This not only helps clean the fuel system, but I have also noticed a slight increase in MPG. (Even with my lead foot).

Again, these are not a "solution" to the problem. These just seem to reduce the frequency for me.

What is sad is that despite all the websites I have found that talk about this issue and Chrysler has not issued a recall or TSBS. This is a severe safety hazard as you loose power steering and brakes when the engine dies. I would not be surprised if other Dodge/Chrysler models utilizing the same setup and are having the same issue.

 

Sounds like negative battery cable, fuel pump or crank sensor to me.

 

So my wife and I have had this truck (08 Chr Aspen) for about 4 years now and its had nothing but issues. We've had the inlet check valve replaced after it was spitting fuel on fill ups and the ongoing issue of stalling after filling up most noticeably when making a turn.

After reading your post it was like solving some great mystery not even the mechanics could figure out after spending well over a thousand replacing spark plugs, solenoids, ignition coils and anything else they could think of except the EVAP system. It all makes sense. I appreciate you taking the time to post what has worked for you.

I will say from experience that trying to purge the vapors while riding on the highway didn't work for us however.We live in MD and often drive back and forth to NJ to visit family. It's about a 2 1/2 hour drive. One time we filled up before heading back home taking the highway which is more than enough mileage to purge the vapors and we decided to stop at a local store not far from our house and as soon as we made the right turn at the light the truck stalled losing steering and control.

As you stated this is a severe safety hazard and we may have to part with the truck sooner rather than later. My wife's been good at knowing when it'll stall and wont fuel until closer to home since it's primarily her vehicle but it's still a risk that doesnt sit well with us because we do have kids that ride in the truck as well.

You mentioned the entire fuel tank would have to be replaced...is that still the case?

 

From the research I found some time back, the ORVR is part of the fuel tank and cannot be purchased by itself. If I had a part number for the ORVR alone, I would of already purchased and tried this. Since it is part of the tank, I have not tried. Replacing the entire tank would be an expensive test. Not to mention, actually finding one new will be a challenge due to the age of the vehicle. Will probably have to find used in which case you won't be certain that the used one isn't already having the same issue.

Have you tried keeping the fuel level above 1/2 tank? That seems to be the ticket for me. Like I said, the Berryman's B-12 also seems to help clean things out. I haven't had it shut down on me since last summer. Of course this could just be due to cooler temps and with summer starting back up, it may start doing it again. We shall see.

 

I will try keeping the fuel level above half tank as well as the Berryman's B-12. Another thing I found of interest I'm willing to try is replacing the entire throttle body (the ones with the TPS sensor included) as I've read the TPS sensor maybe at fault. It looks like an easy job so I could do that one myself. Thanks for your help...I appreciate it!

 

Be sure to keep us informed of anything you try that works. Several of us are trying to find a more permanent solution and hopefully a easier/cheaper one.

 

Update: Late yesterday I tried the Berryman's B-12 before filling up the truck. The outside temps were about 48-50 degrees and before driving off I revved the truck a few times in an attempt to purge the vapors. I took the truck for a test drive on the local back roads which included stops and turns and not once did it stall.

This could've been a combination of the Berryman's and cooler temps as you mentioned at play as I'm not sure how effective revving the engine was.

I have yet to install the Throttle Body Sensor with TPS but it's a good start to perhaps finding a fix even if temporary to this lingering issue. I'll keep you all posted.

 

This happens intermittently and can be caused by a number of issues as you have likely found out. I had the same problem with a 3.5L 2006 Paciifica.. The problem was fixed by replacing the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor which for my engine was about $25. Might be worth a try. Please note that this was not a slow stall issue for me. The engine would be running normally during idle or at slow speeds (usually under 25 mph), and then shut off as if you turned the key off. This would happen intermittently and did not happen at any particular ambient air or engine temp but would usually happen with the engine at normal running temp.

 

Same issue with my 05 Pacifica very dangerous. No ps or on now cranks but no start

 

This is very dangerous issue happened to me once and to wife once. This time cranks but no start. No spark. Had tune up now code 123 & 700 no code before bed I replaced battery. Chrysler needs to be concerned and recall those vehicles bcs if my child or wife or myself gets hurt or worse I'll or my survivor will sue the he'll out of them. They have been informed of this issue and done nothing.