2005 Pacifica P0203 and P0344
#21
I'm inclined to believe the wiring harness is rubbing somewhere when the driveline is torqued. The codes are in no way related or on a common circuit. I would suggest they farm it out to a Chrysler dealer and end this silliness. I know people will tell you a car is a car, but that doesn't hold quite as true as it used to.
Last edited by TNtech; 05-24-2012 at 10:21 PM.
#24
Only me...another update
Finally got them this morning, after two weeks, to take my car to the Chrysler dealer.
They take a look at the PCM and it looks like something has been GNAWING ON a bundle of wires going into the PCM. Seriously? Only me.
$250 reasonable?
Now to find out how much the massive AC rupture will be.
They take a look at the PCM and it looks like something has been GNAWING ON a bundle of wires going into the PCM. Seriously? Only me.
$250 reasonable?
Now to find out how much the massive AC rupture will be.
#25
I would make that tech at the CHrysler dealer your "go-to" from now on.
..........I have never seen a sensor and an actuator code triggering at the same time unless it was a PCM issue or some wires touching somwhere in the wiring harness.
Now something else..., the PCM is in a strange place (under the fender on drivers side) There can be some wiring damage from road debris or some corrosion issue going on there. The pins for the cam sensor and the injector drivers are in the same PCM connector...the middle one
Now something else..., the PCM is in a strange place (under the fender on drivers side) There can be some wiring damage from road debris or some corrosion issue going on there. The pins for the cam sensor and the injector drivers are in the same PCM connector...the middle one
Last edited by TNtech; 06-04-2012 at 08:59 PM.
#26
They found it in hours. The latest call is that they can't get the Cam sensor code to clear and think the problem may have shorted the sensor. They want to replace it for $100. Remember we already replaced this at the start, and the part cost us $50 at the dealer. Can they check someway to see if it is shorted, or is there another way to check it rather than just replacing it and seeing if that works. Husband still has the original sensor we took out.
#27
They found it in hours. The latest call is that they can't get the Cam sensor code to clear and think the problem may have shorted the sensor. They want to replace it for $100. Remember we already replaced this at the start, and the part cost us $50 at the dealer. Can they check someway to see if it is shorted, or is there another way to check it rather than just replacing it and seeing if that works. Husband still has the original sensor we took out.
Last edited by TNtech; 06-04-2012 at 09:18 PM.
#28
It may be chewed too. There are test procedures for every code. The way they are layed out is to eliminate the wiring as the culprit first. If it's an active code they should hone right in on it. If it's intermittent then swapping it will rule it out. Test procedures are not designed for intermittent issues. They may just need to relearn the cam/crank in the PCM. You have to remember, they are having to go behind no telling how many people that have been working on it already. Those I charge double for...lol.
You should know how much I am kicking myself for not just taking it to my local, very professional Chrysler dealer. But we thought it would be a warranty issue and had to take it to where we bought it.
I very much appreciate the dialogue you are having with me over this! Thanks!
#29
Well, the warranty you bought should have covered taking it to any certified facility. The way they work is the shop calls the 1-800 number of the warranty company and they work out the hourly rate and amount of time, items covered, etc. There are some that you can only use the facility you bought it from. I know of a couple places that work that way. You may want to inquire about the specifics of yours. You may be able to go right to the dealer from now on.
#30
There is a menu item on the scan tool where you can reset the cam/crank sync. Sometimes after one of the two have failed, and it gets replaced, a cam or crank code can set right after. In some cases, I have seen them not even start until a relearn was done. I was just accessing the "data bank" and spitting things out. I don't even know what code they're getting but i'm sure they'll figure it out.
Last edited by TNtech; 06-04-2012 at 10:57 PM.