I have a 2007 Pacifica Touring w/ 105,000 miles I bought 2.5 years ago.

This past Saturday, getting ready to leave, and the key fob will not unlock the doors. The previous evening it took several tries to unlock the doors. So I figured the battery died in the key fob. No big deal, I'll open the door manually. Unlocked the driver's door, but none of other doors or tailgate would unlock when I hit the button on the door...?? Decided to crank the truck up, which it did, but it cut right back off after 2 seconds. I'm thinking, now what? Now, it has cut off like that a couple times in the past, but usually runs after 1 or 2 more tries. So of course, I have to try it again.

At some point, we noticed the parking lights flashing and a red light on the console flashing. Thought my hazard lights had come on for some reason, but clicking the button did not change anything. Hey, I'm a woman, I have no idea about some of these things. Eventually the flashing lights quit. But I still couldn't get it to keep running.

So I called the dealer, still thinking (hoping) it's a dead battery in the key fob. He suggested it could also be a microchip in the key that went bad and that I would have to bring the vehicle to the dealer so the key could be reprogrammed to the truck. I live 30+ min from dealer, towing was not an attractive option, so he suggested that a locksmith may be able to do it for me.

Locksmith arrives and starts trying all kinds of things, I don't even know what. But by now he's figured out that we've tried to start it so many times that the security system is locked out. Great. Try to unhook the battery to reset it, and upon connecting the battery again, the alarm sounds 3 chimes, and still nothing. He suggests leaving the key in the ON position for at least an hour to get it to reset (we hooked the battery up to a charger to keep from killing the battery that was put in just 3 weeks prior). I think by this point turning the key on no longer turns on the radio or lights or anything, where it would before.
He leaves to do another job, comes back an hour and a half later. Nothing. We get a new battery to put in the key fob, but still no progress. By this time, he's been at it 3-4 hours total and admits defeat.

Off to the dealer. We're able to get it into a trailer and drop the vehicle off at the dealer that afternoon. Of course, Service is now closed until Monday (today), but at least they have the vehicle. They have the truck all day, and when I called to check the progress, they've made absolutely none. They claim they have no working key to do anything with it. Well, duh, that's why you have my truck. I have a gray spare key and suggested could they try that. They said they would try it; if that didn't work, it would cost me $300 to get a new key. *gulp*

Anyway, what they're telling me is they can't do anything until they have a working key. At this point, I'm not even assuming that the key was the problem in the first place. Why is the security system still locked up after 2 whole days??

I will also add this - this summer I had an after market radio with bluetooth installed. When we changed the battery, I lost some settings I couldn't fix and then the speakers started cutting in and out, to where I couldn't even use the bluetooth. The stereo guys fixed that early last week at no charge, said they replaced the wiring harness. Is there anything they could have messed up or tripped? At this point I'm not assuming anything is unrelated.

Any suggestions as to what this might be or things to try/look for?

Would appreciate any input.

Thanks,
Anna

 

First thought is that the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) fuse may be in the storage mode instead of the customer mode or not properly seated in the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This is a very easy fix and easy to check quickly. I would check this first before trying anything else.

I'm more suspect that the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) needs repair.

The Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) performs the functions of what used to be the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM), the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Module, and the Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) System (formerly located within the Compass Mini-Trip Computer (CMTC).

The Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS) authenticates an electronically coded Transponder Key placed into the ignition and sends a valid/invalid key message to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) based upon the results. The “VALID/INVALID KEY” message communication is performed using a rolling code algorithm via the Programmable Communication Interface (PCI) data bus. A “VALID KEY” message must be sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) within two seconds of ignition ON to free the engine from immobilization.

The RKE transmitter uses radio frequency signals to communicate with the SKREEM module. The SKREEM is on the PCI bus. When the operator presses a button on the transmitter, it sends a specific request to the SKREEM. In turn the SKREEM sends the appropriate request over the PCI Bus to the:

Driver Door Module (DDM) to control the driver front door lock and unlock functions, the arming and disarming of the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) (if equipped), and the activation of illuminated entry.
Integrated Power Module (IPM) to activate the park lamps, the headlamps, and the horn for horn chirp. If requested, the DDM sends a request over the PCI Bus to the:
Passenger Door Module (PDM) to control the passenger front, rear driver, and rear passenger door lock and unlock functions.
Power Liftgate Module (PLGM) to control the liftgate lock and unlock functions.

Good luck on getting your concerns resolved soon!

 

Hey there,

Thanks for your reply. So here's what ended up getting done....

Dealer #1 ended up having to make another key for me, to the tune of $137 (happened to have $50 coupon). Picked it up that Tuesday night, got dinner, and drove it home with no trouble. Wednesday morning, I'm getting ready to leave for work, and I notice the interior lights aren't coming on when I try to unlock the doors. Noooo..... Oh yes, the doors won't unlock with the buttons. Opened door with the key, tried to crank, and it cut right back off. Here we go again.
Borrowed a car and went to work. Called Dealer #1 as soon as they opened, and their response was, "well, it was working when you left, right?" I was LIVID to say the least!
Arranged to have it towed to Dealer #2 that same morning. Before lunch on Wednesday they had identified the problem - SKIM (I know you said SKREEM, but these guys called it the SKIM). They got it replaced the next day, but they were detecting some kind of feedback in the wiring. They traced it back to one of the wires in my new radio. And it had something thing to do with because this truck has some kind of premium sound system in it (factory). Fantastic. It was up to us if we wanted that radio re-installed or the stock radio put back in. Ended up putting neither back in - yet. $360 later, I finally got my truck back on Saturday - a week after the initial trouble.
My husband had talked to the stereo guys that Friday about it, and they wanted to check it out to figure out what was going on. So the week after I got it back, I took it up there, and of course, they could not replicate the feedback. With much reluctance, we had them put the stock radio back in. Bummer. We're going to wait a few months, see how it acts, then maybe try the new radio again. I'm already missing the Bluetooth and iPod connection something fierce.
So, $1000 later ($500 in repairs + $500 radio/installation), I'm right back where I started. UGH. Oh, and I probably did not need the new key either.

I love my truck, but dang, it's a tough love!

Anna

 

I'm very sorry to learn of all those issues, thats a tough week!

SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module) was replaced by SKREEM but I'm sure the dealer was referring to the same thing. If you had an aftermarket radio installed and they may have errantly caused a wiring issue. I'm sure if the radio worked fine for some time and only recently became a problem that there was a loose connection or something of the sort causing this Immobilzer system to activate for some reason.

Good luck on resolving this matter once and for all!

 

Hello I am having similar issue, appears to be in beginning stages. I have a 2007 Pacifica as well, and was having major problem with stereo system, resolved problem with replacing amp, which got out of a salvage yard car. Same age, 2007, but also added in the FACTORY subwoofer out of that same car. All has been good for about a week, now the key fob stopped working, was intermittent would only work close up now dead. can unlock door manually and sets off asl;arm, and will start and run but worried it is going to progress? Also add when working on radio/amp issue blew 25 amp fuse and replaced with fuse from rear heated seat location, I do not have heated seats so left fuse location empty.

 

Can a locksmith help in resolving such security key issues?

 

According to the locksmith who tried to help us (bless him, he really did), if it's simply a dead battery in the key fob, they can fix that, unless you've tripped the security system by trying to start the car too many times. My issues ended up being way more complicated than that, but we didn't know it at the time.