Front end rattling/clunking over bumps at slow speeds
#11
12-29-2013 | 11:47 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12
I find it hard to believe any one has a Pacifica with out clunks or creaks. I have a 2004 with 237,000 on it. I bought it at 45,000 in 2005 with clunks. I have replaced motor mounts, struts, strut mountings, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links, and bushings. It is fine on the highway but a low speed on bumpy roads it sounds like a model T. My wife and I joke that we need to worry when it stops clunking!
#13
12-30-2013 | 07:28 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12
ok so I changed both lower control arms today and 90% of my noises are gone. The crunching when I hit the brakes is gone the creaking is gone and so is the clunking, there is still a small hollow sound at slow speed on small racks and bumps in the road. But I can live with that! Thanks! I may even go and buy me some crossed drilled rotors for it again, they are the only ones that won't warp on this car.
#15
08-02-2015 | 07:51 AM
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 61
If it's a solid clunk I think the swaybar links and bushings are probably your best bet. I've also read online in a few forums to check the torque on the lower control arms and even the frame/body bolts.
It's taken me about 2 years to rid myself of all the clicks, clunks and rattles but I finally have a Pac that feels solid so it can be done. I replace every front end part in my garage in including the motor mounts which failed at 50k.
It's taken me about 2 years to rid myself of all the clicks, clunks and rattles but I finally have a Pac that feels solid so it can be done. I replace every front end part in my garage in including the motor mounts which failed at 50k.
What is the torque spec?
It's 120 ft/lbs
Suppose to be done with suspension loaded.
Washer tabs are not suppose to touch control arms.
My friend and mechanic says: "Well, how did they do it at the factory?" when I told him it needs to be tighten on the ground.
This is part of the problem when you take your car to some one else, even if they are your friend.
Last edited by jimmy154; 08-02-2015 at 08:48 AM.
#16
08-02-2015 | 08:56 AM
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 61
Also I bought some control arms on an auction site where the bushing metal cylinders are too narrow.
Or narrower than Mevotech control arms I got in the past for another pacifica I've owned. Mevotech is okay, but the blue rubber boots fail fast. I replaced mine with Moog boots. Ball joints in Mevotech arms looked good so I just did the boots.
I put washers between the bushings and subframe in the control arms I got this time. They still clunk, but I will try to tighten them when loaded and on the ground.
Problem also when you get them and they are narrower and use the old bolts,
you need more torque because the bolts are oxidized more where the nut was not in contact with the bolt.
Also you are fighting the metal brackets that hold the arms because you have to squeeze them into a narrow dimension.
Mevotech arm bushings where the right size though. Hard to get in actually, like they should be.
Or narrower than Mevotech control arms I got in the past for another pacifica I've owned. Mevotech is okay, but the blue rubber boots fail fast. I replaced mine with Moog boots. Ball joints in Mevotech arms looked good so I just did the boots.
I put washers between the bushings and subframe in the control arms I got this time. They still clunk, but I will try to tighten them when loaded and on the ground.
Problem also when you get them and they are narrower and use the old bolts,
you need more torque because the bolts are oxidized more where the nut was not in contact with the bolt.
Also you are fighting the metal brackets that hold the arms because you have to squeeze them into a narrow dimension.
Mevotech arm bushings where the right size though. Hard to get in actually, like they should be.
Last edited by jimmy154; 08-02-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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