New to Pacifica - help
#1
New to Pacifica - help
We just brought home an 04 Pacifica with 86k miles. It has a couple things that need fixing.
1) the cruise control isn't holding. vaccumm line?
2) the parking brake needs adjusting. It doesn't hold at all.
3) When should the timing belt be replaced? The car has 86k on it now. Can it be inspected easily?
Everthing else seems ok at this point. Are there trouble spots the should be looked at? I have heard about motor mounts. Where would I look to inspect those?
Thanks for any assistance. John
1) the cruise control isn't holding. vaccumm line?
2) the parking brake needs adjusting. It doesn't hold at all.
3) When should the timing belt be replaced? The car has 86k on it now. Can it be inspected easily?
Everthing else seems ok at this point. Are there trouble spots the should be looked at? I have heard about motor mounts. Where would I look to inspect those?
Thanks for any assistance. John
#2
I can help you out on the Timing Belt question, your #3.
Just replaced mine yesterday, I posted a LENGTHY summary on this forum, search for it using keyword Timing Belt.
The factory suggested replacement is at 102k miles, I waited till 118k, the local garage suggested that 120k would most likely be OK. Of course should the timing belt break the engine valves will collide with the pistons, totally wiping out an otherwise really good aluminum block engine.
It is theorically possible to inspect the timing belt (to a very limited degree) by pullling off the right front tire, pulling out the two plastic liners, removing the serpetine auxillary belt, removing one serpetine drive belt idler pulley,removing the harmonic balancer, then removing the lower timing belt cover. But at that point you are very close to being able to totally change out the timing belt. So in short, inspection is not a really viable option.
In regard to the motor mounts, my left motor mount (the one closest to the front bumper) did fail at 100k miles. It is an oil filled German design, cost $80 at local auto parts store. When it breaks you will hear a "clunk" sound when accelerating, but a safety feature of its design allows it to be "mechanically locked" to prevent total release and rotation of the engine. I replaced my own left motor mount; follow ALL the steps in the factory manual AND plan on removing the left exhaust manifold and engine oil dipstick as well. This step is NOT in the factory manual, is relatively easy to accomplish, and provided me the clearance to physically remove & replace the left motor mount.
A 1/2 answer to your question #2 re parking brakes. You must live in a really hilly area, after 118k miles I am still using my factory pads on the rear. Changed out the front pads after 100k, even though they were still in great shape. As far as the parking brake is concerned, I believe there is a set of brake shoes & drums on the rear that function as the parking brake (do not believe the parking brake is achieved using the rear disk brakes). Other than that I have no other experience, should be a matter of cable adjustment to get things going.
Just replaced mine yesterday, I posted a LENGTHY summary on this forum, search for it using keyword Timing Belt.
The factory suggested replacement is at 102k miles, I waited till 118k, the local garage suggested that 120k would most likely be OK. Of course should the timing belt break the engine valves will collide with the pistons, totally wiping out an otherwise really good aluminum block engine.
It is theorically possible to inspect the timing belt (to a very limited degree) by pullling off the right front tire, pulling out the two plastic liners, removing the serpetine auxillary belt, removing one serpetine drive belt idler pulley,removing the harmonic balancer, then removing the lower timing belt cover. But at that point you are very close to being able to totally change out the timing belt. So in short, inspection is not a really viable option.
In regard to the motor mounts, my left motor mount (the one closest to the front bumper) did fail at 100k miles. It is an oil filled German design, cost $80 at local auto parts store. When it breaks you will hear a "clunk" sound when accelerating, but a safety feature of its design allows it to be "mechanically locked" to prevent total release and rotation of the engine. I replaced my own left motor mount; follow ALL the steps in the factory manual AND plan on removing the left exhaust manifold and engine oil dipstick as well. This step is NOT in the factory manual, is relatively easy to accomplish, and provided me the clearance to physically remove & replace the left motor mount.
A 1/2 answer to your question #2 re parking brakes. You must live in a really hilly area, after 118k miles I am still using my factory pads on the rear. Changed out the front pads after 100k, even though they were still in great shape. As far as the parking brake is concerned, I believe there is a set of brake shoes & drums on the rear that function as the parking brake (do not believe the parking brake is achieved using the rear disk brakes). Other than that I have no other experience, should be a matter of cable adjustment to get things going.
#3
Thanks you very much.
I checked my brakes last night and the rotors and pads are brand new. So, think there must be an adjustment for the parking brake. I did press harder on the pedal and it felt like normal resistance. But, I wasn't on any hill to check for slippage.
I do hear a slight clunk going from Drive to reverse and back to drive. It doesn't seem to be very extreme. And there no cluck when driving it. I also here a kind of CV joint sound in the front that I need to check out. I could only see the motor mount on the passenger side. I'm assuming the motor mounts are more visible from the bottom.
I might take on the timing belt a little sooner due to its age. I'll see what I can see with the instructions you gave.
Thanks, John
I checked my brakes last night and the rotors and pads are brand new. So, think there must be an adjustment for the parking brake. I did press harder on the pedal and it felt like normal resistance. But, I wasn't on any hill to check for slippage.
I do hear a slight clunk going from Drive to reverse and back to drive. It doesn't seem to be very extreme. And there no cluck when driving it. I also here a kind of CV joint sound in the front that I need to check out. I could only see the motor mount on the passenger side. I'm assuming the motor mounts are more visible from the bottom.
I might take on the timing belt a little sooner due to its age. I'll see what I can see with the instructions you gave.
Thanks, John
#5
Looks like the parking brakes are adjusted using the "old style" star adjuster. Via a big screwdriver or brake tool, accessing the adjustment port on the rear of the brake drum backing plate. A PDF shop manual shows this on page 185, http://www.scribd.com/doc/36505310/1...ca-Shop-Manual .
#7
to clairfy the '04 rear brakes system... the rear brake is a combined rotor & drum assembly. The rotor & pads portion is the primary brakes, while the drum & shoes portion is the parking brake. The '04 & '05 (possibly other years too) use the same part # brakes. the following link shows a pretty good/clear picture of what the rotor/drum looks like on the rear.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1307501
the fronts of course are straight rotors & pads (discs).
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1307501
the fronts of course are straight rotors & pads (discs).
Last edited by PanaGringo; 08-28-2010 at 12:36 PM. Reason: typo & re-wording.
#8
BTW...I have a sloped driveway and feel the parking brake on the Pacifica is a tad weak. if the pedal is not fully pressed down, the brake does not hold the vehicle securely. my wifey especially has a tough time with this. i have not bothered with the adjustment of the parking brake yet, as Florida is so flat, we don't set the parking brake very often.
Also +1 on the brakes endurance. i just replace the front rotors & pads @ 96K miles and the rear pads & rotors look to have plenty of life left in them.
Also +1 on the brakes endurance. i just replace the front rotors & pads @ 96K miles and the rear pads & rotors look to have plenty of life left in them.
#9
I have doubt with issue on my previous car, with the same type of rear park brake setup, a small drum assem in the middle of the disk, I had my local brake shop (tuffY) take the rears apart and scuff the park brake pads and the inner of the park brake drum. and then adjust to spec. and re-assem. this solution worked for the remainder of brake life. and the brakes held very well exspecially on the boat ramp. hope this helps.
BTW. the entire operation cost me about $50.00 and was worth it.
BTW. the entire operation cost me about $50.00 and was worth it.
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