Voltage regulater
#4
The alternator and battery are brand new. The consistent problem is the dash lights keep flickering off and on. I did a voltage test with voltage meter with the car off it was at 12.97 volts then with it running it was at 14.78 volts. Then gave it gas up to 1500rpm it went up to 15.45 volts. The headlights dim in and out as do the interior lights. Some times the car just doesnt start
#6
Well, because i was driving down the road and all my dash lights came on, the car kicked back and i immediately pulled over and shut it off. Then it didnt start again. After about 20 minutes it started enough to get me home but my headlights dim in and out and its just not safe for me to drive. This is my husbands doing, replacing the voltage regulator. Please tell me we are on the right track? I have been out of work for a week
#7
"I did a voltage test with voltage meter with the car off it was at 12.97 volts then with it running it was at 14.78 volts. Then gave it gas up to 1500rpm it went up to 15.45 volts."
This is a working alternator. Basic understanding how an alternator works, The battery is protentional it starts the car thats basically it.. When the engine is running above 500 rpm the alternator provides power for the whole car and about 5% or so charges the battery back up to 100%. So a faulty alternator you would have not been able to restart the car after it had died because once the alternator has failed then the battery is to be drained until there is no more power then its game over.
The Voltage regulator is built into the engine computer not the alternator itself. It uses a pulse with PWM system where it will adjust the voltage based off the demand of the car. Thus why he is seeing the 14 to 15 volt jump. You likely have a faulty ground wire from the battery pretty common if there is green stuff in the main power or ground wither at the battery that's likely your dim headlights and other electrical issues. Also could be same green corrosion in the fuse box connections.
All makes since?
This is a working alternator. Basic understanding how an alternator works, The battery is protentional it starts the car thats basically it.. When the engine is running above 500 rpm the alternator provides power for the whole car and about 5% or so charges the battery back up to 100%. So a faulty alternator you would have not been able to restart the car after it had died because once the alternator has failed then the battery is to be drained until there is no more power then its game over.
The Voltage regulator is built into the engine computer not the alternator itself. It uses a pulse with PWM system where it will adjust the voltage based off the demand of the car. Thus why he is seeing the 14 to 15 volt jump. You likely have a faulty ground wire from the battery pretty common if there is green stuff in the main power or ground wither at the battery that's likely your dim headlights and other electrical issues. Also could be same green corrosion in the fuse box connections.
All makes since?
#8
Hello. I have a 2008 Chrysler Pacifica. The battery light came on yesterday and the car stopped accelerating and died. So my husband changed the alternator, with a rebuilt alternator from O'reilys. It worked fine all night last then this afternoon we went to go to town and the battery light was back on. Drove it for a little bit and then my husband dropped me off at work and stopped to get gas. He turned the car on and it would not start. He got a jump made it about 2 miles up the road and it died again. So he took the old alternator off and it started to melt the connection wire. He is currently putting a different rebuilt alternator on. Could this possibly be another issue or did we get a faulty alternator?
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rafael_t_ornelas@yahoo.com
Chrysler Pacifica
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09-21-2021 11:16 AM