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1999 Voyager 2.5TD loosing power at 2000rpm

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  #1  
Old 08-30-2014 | 05:47 PM
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Default 1999 Voyager 2.5TD loosing power at 2000rpm

Hi Everyone.

I am new to the forum and I am seeking help PLZ.

I recently bought a 1999 GV 2.5TD. I bough it off Fleabay and didnt view before buying as it was 100 miles away.
On bring the Voyager home the water pump seized and we had to Tow it back.
My friend drove it till it broke down as I am not insured for it yet. He informed me that it was lagging at around 2000 rpm. I assumed it was just the EGR valve so wasn't really worried about it.
I have had it parked on my drive way for 4 weeks now as I cant get to the bottom of the problem.
I removed EGR and cleaned it out and it is working fine. I tested the Impedance on the #1 injector and it is 103 ohms?? The Waste-gate is moving when I pressure tested the turbo system and seems fine. When I pressure tested the system I found I am loosing pressure slowly through the intake manifold. I dont know if this is normal? The turbo is spooling as I can hear it kick in till it hits 2000rpm. My friend was doing 90mph in it its just that it lags in between.
It has 158000 miles on the clock but starts excellent. I have also tested the Boost sensor aka map sensor. whe the ignition is on but not started it is 1.9v and is exactly the same once the engine is started.
When I pressure the system to 15psi the map sensor reads 3.87V. I dont know if this is where the problem lies as I only found out what what a boost sensor was 2 days ago??

Any help is much appreciated PLZ
 
  #2  
Old 08-31-2014 | 06:30 AM
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Fit a cheap boost gauge off of ebay and see what pressure you getting while driving. If you are getting boost then either the pump is not being told to inject more fuel or it is being told and just not able to respond to the demand.

If the engine won't go beyond 2000rpm then it's in limp mode, but if you were getting to 90, you must be able to exceed 2000rpm

any fault codes?

Regards
Richard
 
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Old 08-31-2014 | 08:13 AM
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Hi thank you for reply. There are no error codes only 55 end if code shows up. When car is out if gear it revs the same as any car. The car revs the full range when driving it just flattens out at 2000rpm. I am at my wits end lol.
Do you know if the intake manifold should ever be under a vacuum ? I can't see how it would be but trying to get my head around stuff ?


Cheers
 
  #4  
Old 08-31-2014 | 03:01 PM
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The inlet manifold will show negative pressure on a gauge only under off-throttle deceleration.

Get a boost gauge on it and see what the pressure is getting too. You need to get some solid data to base the diagnosis on.

Regards
Richard
 
  #5  
Old 08-31-2014 | 04:11 PM
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Cheers Richard.
I have to add that with the map sensor disconected and number 1 sensor disconected it runs the same ? I did notice that the fuel pump started to buzz when i disconected it or put pressure in the boost pipes with pressure tester.
I would have thought error codes should come up for the nap sensor and #1 injector being disconected whilst engine is running ?

Cheers
Darren
 
  #6  
Old 09-03-2014 | 04:46 PM
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I have ordered the boost guage and new comoensator valve for brakes.
Just another question, I know a map sensor should be putting outcaround 5v when ignition is on but not started. Shoukd this be the same for a boost pressure sensor ?

Cheers
 
  #7  
Old 09-03-2014 | 05:48 PM
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It's a combined boost and air temp sensor.
Pin1 is ground
Pin2 is temp signal
Pin3 is 5V reference
Pin4 is boost signal

You will get a reading on 2 and 4 with key on engine off, but not sure exactly what it is

Regards
Richard
 
  #8  
Old 09-03-2014 | 06:23 PM
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Hi Richard cheers

Mine is within range with what the manual says and consistently keeps the same voltage with the same pressures. Whether it is the correct voltage is another matter lol.
I didn't check out temperature part of it yet.

Do you know wgat is an acceptable resistance for #1 injector plz? Mine us 103 ohms but I have read that if it is over 93 it is no good ?

Cheers
 
  #9  
Old 09-03-2014 | 09:19 PM
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specification is 110 ohms +- 10 ohms. But all that means is the coil is intact, if the needle lift part is stuck then the coil wont generate a signal

Regards
Richard
 
  #10  
Old 09-04-2014 | 02:21 AM
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Many thanks Richard.
 



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