Straight forward!
Under car near right hand side rear wheel is a black plastic bowl (for one of a better word) with moulded onto the bottom of it a big hexagonal nut. Also plugged into this bowl is a plug with a cable on it (I think to sense water in the bowl). Also on the bottom of the bowl is a drain plug. Makes sure the ignition is off and keys are removed. Turn drain plug anti-clockwise and drain water/diesel into glass jar or something until its emply. Tighten/nip up drain plug.

Unplug cable (I note roughly where the moulded electrical socket on the bowl is pointing, to car front, side...whatever...just so when I refit bowl I can see roughly where to tighten to and of course cable still reaches socket. Also - just note where plastic bowl meets the aluminium housing where it fits flush to the housing - just as a reference for when you tighten the bowl on refitting.

Now get a good fit socket and fit to moulded hex nut on bottom of plastic bowl. Carefully but purposefully turn anti clockwise. It will unscrew but you think it may break as it will be tight until you free the compressed O ring.

If your mechanically minded, cleaning out and refitting is straight forward. I fit the filter into the bowl (It clicks into position), fit new O ring, little bit of diesel to lubricate, screw bowl on by hand as far as I can to make sure threads ar ok - then tighten carefully until the top of the plastic bowl is about in the right place and the side electrical socket are back in line - about where it was before you started.

Good luck & hope it fixes your problem.

 

Good guide dandy.

What about purging the system of air after the filter change.....is this required or does the lift pump do it automatically.

 

All I ever did was change filter. That's it. I never purged or anything else. Always just turned key and cranked engine and it started. maybe a few tries but I never recall any problems.

Kind Regards

 

Dandy your a legend, did this last night and drove 100+ miles today and NO STALLING and drives much better than the 141k miles on the clock suggests.

Thanks again!

 

Good. Your welcome.

Kind Regards.

One last comment.

Will add tag here : Car cutting out

Might help others find this in future as this is not really a cam belt problem solved. Maybe site admin can help with tag search.

 

Very frustrating day today after thinking my problems were behind me with the car stalling. After changing the fuel filter (which came out balck and covered in a slimy residue) the car stalled again.

Now the filter has been changed the car stalled much less frequently and went alot longer before the problem resurafced so will get the MPROP valve changed next week before looking at the injectors.

 

Looks like the problem is solved after getting the car back from Watson diesel today, they tested the injectors and found they were ok and ended up changing the MPROP - all in £280 which I was pretty happy with.

Drove straight 240 miles since and not a single stall so looks to have fixed my issues for now. Would also recommend Watson very highly, they were polite and friendly and very thorough.

 

Since you have the car only for a few weeks, you may be certain that the problems you are facing were already there when you purchased it. If possible get your money back.

The slimy residue may be normal, but it may also be an effect fuel contamination (with water) followed by growth of algae. If this contimination is bad it may eventually block the fuel suction sock inside the tank. A symptom of this is unexpected and difficult to reproduce mid-trip stalling especially when the tank is near empty. Operating the lift pump then makes things worse as this brings air in the fuel lines. A longer term effect is damage to the mprop valve and injectors.

As a precaution I would recommend applying an additive to the fuel. I use grotomar but there are other brands as well.

good luck!

 

That is what I was thinking but cars bought tend to be sold as seen and I test drove the car for about 2 hours before the actual purchase - is there any way that the seller could have covered up the issue for that long? It was stalling after about 30-45 mins of driving before I changed anything.

I have some Grotamar on order from a marine supplies shop because I want to minimise any more issues.

Its a real catch 22 with the Voyager - nothing comes close to offering the space and style but I dont think I would ever feel 100% that something isnt about to go wrong!

 

Well, the odds that you have a problem within 30 minutes and the previous owner never had one? Let me think ..... small.

The previous owner may have replaced the fuel filter just as you did, this seems to suppress the cut-out problem for a few hundred miles.
But if there is biologic contamination going on, the new filter will plug very fast. Also if the problem is a blockage in the fuel sock, as with my car, the cut-out mainly occurs when the tank is below approx 1/4.

I can't judge if Chrysler diesels are more vulnerable than common rail systems applied in other brands. But on this forum user stories about cutting out due to rail pressure issues appear almost monthly.

To do a proper analysis one would like to know how all these stories end in the long run. Unfortunately, most threads stop without mentioning the long term outcome.

A little bit off topic:

My speculation is that (condensed) water in fuel followed by growth of microbes is more often the underlying cause of failures of Mprop valves/injectors and blocked filters than generally recognized,
and that voyagers have a week spot in the design of the fuel delivery system that makes the system more vulnerable to microbes than others.

Speculating even further: I think the combined fuel filter and water separator is the weak spot. The water that builds up in here is vulnerable to infection with microbes long before the built in water sensor detects it.
But again these are just my speculations based on N=1.

What I am amazed about is that Chrysler dealers recognioze the symptoms immediately, in other words they see cars with these problem regularly, but at the same time they do not seem to know how to adress rail pressure issues adequately. When I first went into the dealer they proposed to replace the HP pump, including cam belt change and auxiliary electic lift pump (about 2100 eu I believe). Thanks to this forum I did not accept.
None of the user stories ever mentioned a broken down HP pump, so in my opinion a dealer should know that this the last thing to look for.
Also I was recommended (not by an official dealer this time) to replace the lift pump. With hindsight this was not of any use either. Now I know that there are some simple tests you can do to verify if there is any problem with the lift pump.

My point is that one would expect mechanics to now these things, especially if they have seen a few of these problems in the past.

Anyhow, I hope your problem is over for good and hope you post back in 6 months or so, also if everything is still ok.