Easy test, just between the RAD & engine block use the hand primer



when the hand primer button is solid hard (1) does the car start and (2) how long after switch off for the 'leak back' and loss of pressure, and failure to start ?

On my 05 the LP pump is incorporated into the HP pump, the water drain is on the bottom of the 'spin on filter' and the diesel fuel heater is under a plate on the car underneath the drivers seat floor. Your first checks should be the (3) 'spin on filter' is tight and the (4) plastic water drain is also tight to the filter.

 

For us all it would be ideal if there was a clear section of fuel hose on the fuel line, then we would be able to see if there was any air bubbles present. This would tell us if there was a problem.

 

Hi

Same/similar problem see my post

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...s-17766/page2/

Haven't changed the crank sensor yet, decided I really had to change the cambelt so did that instead, well it has done 125k miles! Will try and post some of the things I found about a belt change on a new thread.

Anyway about to go on holiday so decided to do a quick filter change to solve the hot start problem, only lasted about 500 miles this time. What I noticed was how loose the input and output pipes to the fuel filter housing are. This is the filter housing on the front of the engine block (with a spin on fuel filter).
I can slide the pipes along the metal tubes of the housing. There is a black plastic collar at the end of the pipe which I assume is to lock/secure the pipe somehow? This plastic collar spins quite freely, which doesn't seem right.

So my stupid question is, does anyone know how these are supposed to fit? Should they be loose? Are there "O" rings in there? Or do you just pull them off?

When I finally solve my problem, I promise to post my solutuion here!

Thanks Guys

 

Cam and Crank sensors are interlinked/work together so to speak. So if it error codes Camshaft sensor, change them both...

 

We have been through a very painful session of a 2.8TD that was very reluctant to start and also got to the stage where the dealer said to replace the high pressure pump. But it wasn't that.

Unfortunately this is going to need some padding out because all I have is the info I got from my independant dealer but...

On our car the hard start was caused by a pressure relief valve off the fuel rail that was not closing properly and allowing the fuel rail to drain down when the engine was not running. I was told the disagnosis is to disconnect the return pipe from the valve and see if there is fuel leaking past the valve.

I don't have a clue where the valve is and the Chrysler dealer wouldn't believe it even when they were told about it.

Hope this helps.

Vince.

 

I have just seen this thread and seen similar with the same defect all over the web.

I have an 2006 2.8lx auto diesel and for a few months now have a problem when starting.

I turn the engine over and nothing happens I try again and it kicks in. Sometimes 5 times before it starts, I even have to wait a few minutes before retrying with success. It can become rather embarrassing people tapping on the window etc...

Putting this aside for a moment, thing is before all this started my remote key fob seemed to appear to show signs of low battery so I replaced it. It works ok but 1 in 10 attempts to lock or open it does not respond and now the starting problem occurred and naturally wonder if the two faults are connected in some way?

 

Its possible it could be a stored code problem or SCREEM module but more likely you have two separate problems. Try this for the KEYFOB problem, and if the FOB then locks and unlocks reliably every time - does the starting problem still persist ?

 

Hi thanks for the reply. I have done as it says the key fob works ok (so far) but the starting problem still exists.

It started not too bad today, not straight away but the 2 times I tried it I got there, the third time after driving 3 miles then stop of r10 ins then try to start again was a no go... I did all the tricks to start i have read here I knew like starting with the peddal down to the floor and cranking still it starts. a few mins or waiting for the rev counter to drop etc but no joy. Sometimes it sounds like it will start like igniting the fuel for a split second.

I did have a booster battery and it started straight away which might be luck, but I am adamant it's not the battery causing fault as it's 9months old, and the starting fault happened even after a 150 mile drive. .. Confused.

 

Good I'll assume the FOB is re-married till you tell me otherwise.

What's the DOM code on the battery, it might be one year since you bought and fitted it but it might be 2 or 3 years old by now. Did you read and try #11 ? Before you get into spending loads of money you do what you can. Two things a novice can do is prove it has fuel and prove it has CCA. If the things refused to start after 150 miles I'd go straight to #11 fuel and the first eliminator. No need for fancy expensive injector and fuel rail tests, with a fully charged battery just bump~the~pump till its hard if it doesn't start then predictably its not fuel. Best of luck M8 !

 

Can I ask if you have checked the Air Mass Sensor? Especially if spraying Ether based starting fluid into the intake? You need fuel and air in the right proportions and the Air mass sensor can cause strange codes to be displayed... Fixed my problem after dismantling almost everything else! I should add that the ECU does not turn the fuel on until cranking speed and some other parameters are achieved.