Have a 00 Chrysler Voyager 150K miles. About a week ago, I noticed I go to turn on the van, turn the key, sounds just like a dead battery, one turn of the engine or 2, maybe less, then nothing, try again, engine turns over again or not at all, 3rd time, sometimes turns right over or nothing, etc. but will always (so far) eventually turn over & run like nothing happened. Drives normal, the lights, controls are always lit up throughout the ordeal. Have no idea whats going on?? Battery was replaced 6 months ago.
Sometimes it pops over on the 1st key turn, but it seems to be more & more consistently taking a couple times to start. Any thoughts?? bad ground?? I did have issues with the key not wanting to turn a year ago, nothing lately, could it be a ignition switch?? Sensor?? Any help, its getting cold in MN, dont want to be left out in it!!

 

makes it a bit easier to read if you start a new thread.

From the symptoms I would suggest looking at the earthing straps on the engine and to the battery/chassis

Regards
Richard

 

Can't argue with that, although I guess I would remove and clean electrically connecting parts. I would check and clean both posts and clamps on the battery too.


Mike

 

Did anyone get to the bottom of this as my 2003 2.5 DRC with 84k miles has started this, always starts from cold, leave for 1/2 hour when hot and no chance have had the Cam Shaft sensor replaced but have been told on mu other post that the Cam and Crank sensors work as one, so am waiting for delivery, I do wonder if I have a real live Gremlin?? When starting after an Hour it goes first time drives great plenty of power

 

Lets hope you have no issue with wiring to the sensors. Mind check sensor wiring connector is good.

 

find someone with an oscilloscope. Monitor the crank and cam signals at the sensors and ECU while cranking. It's a lot cheaper to diagnose than keep buying parts

Regards
Richard

 

Hi all, Thought i would share my recent experience with you.

I have been having problems starting my Grand Voyager 2.8CRD for some time and decided to test my pressure relief valve a while ago. Please see video. Its a really simple test, you just need some clear tube, a small bottle and something to block off the pipe removed from the valve.


As you can see from the video the valve was opening on cranking and engine idle once started. This it shouldn't do.

I eventually got around to changing the valve this weekend as it had got a lot worse and even embarrassing trying to start it. It now starts 1st time very well and I do not have to use the throttle while cranking anymore. Also I have noticed that i am not getting lots of smoke on acceleration as I did before.

 

Good answer to starting there from drisaacs and an easy test. Lack of pressure in the fuel rail that has this valve, injectors leaking just off the rail and the rail pressure sensor culminate on this fault. Its a wonder the engine wasn't cutting out under load or was this the next stage. Also this loss of smoke under acceleration is interesting.

 

This is really useful, sounds just like the problem I am having. Do you know what the torque setting is required for the pressure relieve valve please

Many thanks

Andy